Pan lid handle repair kit with mold avoidance

Pan lid handle repair kit with mold avoidance

prusaprinters

<p>Forced to stay at home we cook more. I recycled an old pan. The lid handle was broken and full of mold.</p> <p>The usual lid handle has the problem that water accumulates in it. This is a wonderful place to incubate germs. The producers have not yet found a way to keep water effectively out of the handle cavity. My design has channels so that the water can rush in during washing and then leave the cavities completely in the typical positions a lid is placed (Handle-UP, for drying or storage) so the handle can dry on the inside quickly.</p> <p>I am aware that FFF printed models obtain a lot of micro cavities and are itself prone to incubate germs.<br/> So lease do not use these handles after the corona emergency.</p> <p>For fitting the replacement handle to the lid one can use the original screw which is typically M5 and an additional M5 nut. If you do not have a nut the model will hold the M5 screw, but only to a certain degree. You may cook with it but you may be careful. You may better decrease the screw slot diameter about 0.1-0.3mm in this case and FORCE the screw in.<br/> I also added a lot of cache space if you have only a longer screw at hand. You may also be good fitting a M4 screw/nut, but only if you have a M4 nut!</p> <p>Keep in mind to use stainless steel screw/nuts since the cheaper ones may contain materials you do not like to have in your dish.</p> <p>I like it spicy so I took the risk. Also I never made a mass spectral analysis of the original screw plugged in to verify that it is really stainless steel :-)</p> <p>Never use a screw head in direct contact with the glass of the lid - it may break and harm you. Always put something elastic between the screw head and the glass. My design comes with a small tension distribution disk for the screw head.</p> <p>I also included the design in STP, so you can easily adopt it.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><p>I recommend strongly to use a high temperature filamanent like "Green Tec" since PETG may be weak to withstand a dishwashers temperature or the cooking heat.</p> <p>There is support needed for the M5 nut hole. Make sure to set the Z-Distance for supports to 0.2mm.</p> <p>Then the supports can be removed with only a little hassle using the pliers and a small allenkey which came with your Prusa printer.</p> <p>I utilized Prusa PETG with 20% filling which feels sturdy but to be sure feel free to make it more dense.</p>

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