Perspex Lids for Teaching Tech Case

thingiverse

Note that this is unlikely to fit the Ender 3 Pro! A little whimsy for those of us who, for no particular reason, like to see all the blinkenlights on our Ender 3 electronics. It was designed to use 1mm clear perspex that I already had in my possession. I have a taller version of Teaching Tech's case, but the lid should happily fit the standard one as the extra height is all on the bottom of the case. On my printer the Y stepper motor was oriented with its cable connector facing down. But this prevents increasing the lid thickness enough to accommodate the perspex and glazing frame. My solution was simple enough: Simply rotate the stepper motor body, and reattach, so that the cable connector faces the rear of the printer. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy! I also added a slight wedge shape to where the lid tucks under the centre rail, just to make the lids hold in a little more tightly. In my earlier prototypes (horrible chunky frames, and just didn't look right), I used cynoacrylate glue to hold the three parts together. But the adhesive's fumes kept staining both the perspex and the PLA and it spoiled the finish. So, on this version, I used 15 minute epoxy to much better effect - although the eagle-eyed amongst you will spot that I still managed to get it all over the front of the left hand glazing frame (technically the rear right hand when viewed from the printer front lol). This could have been avoided by using masking tape on it before glueing, but you live and learn! I would print another, but I haven't any more perspex. Once glued, I used Poundland woodworking clips (something like these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32788497741.html ) to hold it all together, and left it to set overnight. It fitted a treat, and doesn't look half bad. I will be tidying up the cables within the box in due course, but unfortunately something has happened to the USB connector on my SKR Mini E3. Octopi won't even connect and, when the SKR Mini is plugged into the PI, it stops the webcam (or anything else plugged in the USB) from working. So I've ordered a new board, and will tidy up when that's in and running. I would imagine it could provide scope for case lighting, although I won't be going there myself. I have, however, fitted a Pimoroni on/off shim, with an external button, to make shutting down more convenient. The button has an integral LED fitted, and I will get this working once I figure out my first steps in Linux! Finally, Thanks again to Michael from Teaching Tech for both getting me started in 3D printing, and for designing such a practical electronics case for Ender 3 afficionados like me.