Phial of Salts prop - Bioshock Infinite

thingiverse

Here's a prop of the Salts bottle from Bioshock Infinite. There are files for both a static and a hero light-up version! For a static version print one each of: bioshock_salts_neck_plug_static.stl bioshock_salts_stopper_static.stl bioshock_salts_neck_ring.stl bioshock_salts_bottle_final.stl For a light-up version print one each of: bioshock_salts_neck_for_glowstick.stl bioshock_salts_stopper_for_glowstick.stl (print in shell mode) bioshock_salts_neck_ring.stl bioshock_salts_bottle_final.stl The example above was printed on an Afinia H479. The solid models were created in a trial of Alibre Design and the label was made in GIMP by tracing game screenshots. BTW, if there's something wrong with those files let me know... They are slightly different from the ones I printed as they were rotated in netfabb and re-exported before uploading (originally I set the orientation in my printer software). Instructions In addition, you will need these supplies: -Clear ABS filament -Clear blue paint (Tamiya PS-39 spray can or X-23 w/airbrush) -Tan spray paint (such as Krylon gloss Almond) -Red chisel tip acrylic paint marker -Black fine tip acrylic or oil-based paint marker -Sharpie marker -Tan printer paper -Krylon matte clear finish -Chrome tape or chrome Monokote -Spray adhesive or Xyron sticker maker -Plastic welder (like Ambroid or Bondene) -LED Glow stick, blue (Target camping department) (light-up version only) Tools: -Hobby knife -Sandpaper -Dremel w/ sanding drum & cutting disc -Scissors -Acetone vapor smoothing apparatus (optional) Procedure: 1) Print all parts. At least the bottle and stopper should be made from clear ABS filament. You won't ever get a glass-clear print from this stuff, but what you do get is a diffused/translucent look that is perfect for this prop. The striations left by the print process break up and help distribute the light more evenly. Also, if your printer generates support material inside the bottle, don't remove it - it further helps with diffusing the LED cone. 2) (Optional but recommended) Smooth all parts with an acetone vapor bath (I use a variation of the method here: http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/2012/11/10/presto-part-finisher/ ). It gives the printed parts a glossy and glass-smooth finish. Again, this step is not absolutely necessary but it really improves the look and feel of the prop. 3)(a) (Light-up version only) Using the Dremel with sanding drum, remove the ridges and the loop on the grip of the LED glowstick as shown in the photos above. Don't take too much off- stop and check often to make sure that the diameter is just small enough for an interference fit inside of the stopper. 3)(b) Cut most of the LED light stick's clear tube off- you'll only need to leave about 3/8" to 1/2" sticking out of the grip portion. Also make a small notch in the stopper as shown in the photos above. The screw on the LED light stick grip will slot in here. This not only disguises the screw, but also serves to lock the handle in place within the stopper. 4) Paint the stopper (& bottle for a static version) and neck ring. Tamiya PS-39 is a little expensive but if you're careful with application it gives GREAT results on the 3d print ABS. Next make a paper stencil (see photo above) or freehand trace an outline of the stopper detail with a fine sharpie. Use a med-large chisel tip acrylic paint pen to fill in the red. Once that's dry, use a fine point black paint pen for the outline. Finally, paint the portion of the glow stick grip that is visible between the stopper and neck ring with clear blue. 5)(a) Label time. Print two labels from the .PNG file above (they should be 2.4" wide/tall). It's best to print the labels on tan paper to match the game texture. You may choose to weather this a bit (hint: tea or coffee) but I did not. Apply a matte clear spray coat to protect the printing. Run the side of a sharpie tip along the cut edge of the label to black it out. 5)(b) (Light-up only) In the game, the glow of the salts does not transmit through the labels on the bottle. Chrome tape or silver monokote (check the airplane section of the hobby shop) will stop light bleed by reflecting it back inside the bottle. 5)(c) Use a Xyron sticker maker, permanent double stick tape, or spray adhesives to apply adhesive to the back of the labels. Apply labels to bottle. 6) Assembly! Glue the neck plug into the bottle with a plastic welder like Ambroid or Bondene. Don't use acetone- it plays havoc on the glossy surface left by the vapor smoothing and the neck may craze or otherwise deform. (Light-up only) The stump of the LED light stick's clear tube will friction fit into the hole in the neck plug. The neck ring will be trapped between the two- glue is optional for this part. Just twist the stopper to turn the light on! That's it! Please post any questions or things you made :)