PiGRRL Zero - Modified

thingiverse

This is a modified version of Adafruit's PiGRRL Zero Case & Components. I have not yet tested this with a live print, though I did print & use an earlier version of the bottom case which worked great for me. The rest of the modifications came after that. Here is a list of changes I made to it: Bottom case based on SNEAKxxATTACK's revised "Beefier Joint" variant. Some joints were slimmed down slightly, adjusted, and notched in order to resolve some clearance/assembly issues. Shoulder button posts reinforced to prevent shoulder buttons from "free floating". The inner corners of the shoulder button posts also have round stands to help the shoulder buttons pivot as if they were hinged like on a traditional controller. USB (Host) Port Mount notched for easier installation, and added snap-on caps to retain port in place once installed. Added snap-on cap to retain power switch in place once installed. Also added a slight bevel to the opening for the power switch. microUSB Port opening notched for easier installation of the PowerBoost 1000C. Posts added under all four corners of button PCBs to resolve pivoting issue. In the original design, pressing one of the side-most buttons even moderately hard would cause the PCB to rock slightly, which could even actuate the button on the opposite side. These posts solve this issue. Opened up the holes slightly on the original washers. Also added four thinner washers which serve two functions: they help you adjust the "tension" of the button PCBs so you can really fine-tune button pressure, and many screw head designs would cause the two closest pins to short out once the screw was tightened down. Using these washers isolates the PCB from the screw heads to prevent this from happening. Washers all combined to a single STL for easier printing. L & R labels added to shoulder buttons Directional arrow and center circle added to D-pad X/Y action buttons made concave (think SNES controller) Action Button Cluster and PiTFT Button Cluster notched, making them easy to break in half to help prevent accidental triggering (this is only necessary if you're printing the buttons in PLA like I did). Let me know how it works out for you guys!