Pilot Baby - 3D Printable Vintage RC Sports Model Reproduction.

cults3d

Update - 04.06.2019: I added an aileron wing. I haven't test printed it, but it fits in CAD and should print fine. Bend 2 mm piano wire to use as torque rods to the ailerons in the slot on the underside of the wing. The new files begin with "Aileronwing-" and should be printed light and single wall 0,25-0,3 mm extrusion like the other parts. I used to fly a Pilot Baby decades ago. It was a fun little plane, even with heavy 540 car motor and 7-cell sub C nicads, and only elevator and rudder control. I decided to design a printable version using the original plan and keeping the original shape as close as possible. I even modeled the shape of the ribs and covering on top of the wing. Flight videos:https://youtu.be/3M_5ZInhubwhttps://youtu.be/UxittfJNad4 When flying it's best to keep power on. It doesn't glide well and loses energy quickly in turns. Wingspan: 914 mm. Length: 683 mm (without prop and spinner). Weight: 600-750 g. CG: 46 mm from the leading edge. Elevator throw: 6 mm up and 6 mm down. Rudder throw: 12 mm each direction. Power: 1400-3000kv motor and 4S-2S lipo with 6" prop. Motor: https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-BR2212-2450KV-2-3S-Brushless-Motor-For-RC-Airplane-p-1085432.html Battery: https://www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-11_1V-1800mAh-75C-3S-Lipo-Battery-XT60-Plug-p-1170988.html Servos: 9g servos. Here's the original plan:https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=2226 I designed both rubber band wing attachment holes and a wing for latch attachment, which is easier but less forgiving og bad landings. Use a short length of 6 mm carbon tubing to join the wing halves. 4 mm rods or tubing can be used to help index the wing sections when gluing together. It needs quite a lot of nose weight with the super light modern motor up there, so a heavy motor can be used (60g+). I also made noses for different Cox TD and BB engines, but won't be able to test those out myself as I don't have any engines. It has an integrated servo tray and holes for control rods to poke through, lining up straight to the control surfaces, which have integrated control horns.The printable clevis can be used on the end of 2 mm carbon rods to attach tot he tail. Use adjustable link clamps to secure the rods to the servos (https://www.banggood.com/5Pcs-2_1mm-RC-Model-Aircraft-Steering-Gear-Servo-Rudder-Adjust-Device-p-80481.html) The fuselage parts have areas that should be cut away after printing. Fuselage 01 and 02 fit together with short bits of filament to index them as they are glued. Fuselage02 should have the top printed surface trimmed as well to clean up the stringing that occurs there, and Fuselage03 fits inside that end of Fuselage02. Fuselage04 fits inside the end of Fuselage03. The two Hstab halves should be glued together with a short length of 2 mm rod to index and strengthen the joint. The tail surfaces are replaceable. The tail surfaces should be assembled by first inserting the Vstab into the fuselage and then slotting the Hstab in from behind and secured with tree M3 countersunk screws. Use CA hinges or your favourite micro hinges to hinge the control surfaces. Landing gear can be bent from 2 mm piano wire or the 3D printable landing gear can be used. It flies great as it's a close replica of the original design, which flew even with my old ultra heavy gear at around 1 kg weight. It even slope soared at that weight.