Pokemon TCG tokens and counters (two-tone for single extruder)

thingiverse

Pokemon Trading Card Game Tokens/Damage Counters I made for a friend, thought it'd be fun to try making them two-tone but I only have a single extruder printer. I printed one color layer, then a white base layer on top without moving the first print to make it two-tone. All the files are sliced in two, "_color.stl" and "_white.stl" (white was just what I used, and what I named the file, black or another color may have worked better for some of the filaments I used). All of them are 1.4mm thick, the tokens are 23mm in diameter and the damage counters are 13mm. The "color" portion is only 0.4mm thick, so some lighter filament colors may not show up well (like the fluorescent green I used on the poison tokens). I've added some 2x, 4x, and 8x files to make lining up in Cura easier (I did them all one-by-one when I did my prints :P then realized it would have been easier doing it in Fusion 360 first, rather than entering in XYZ coordinates over and over in Cura) Instructions for how to line these up in Cura for printing: 1) Insert "xxxx_color.stl" in to CURA 2) CTRL+Z to ensure the model is centered in the middle. 3) Move the model to coordinates (eg X = 80, Y = 80, Z = 0) 4) Insert "xxxx_white.stl" in to CURA 5) CTRL+Z to ensure the model is centered in the middle as Cura sometimes rotates them for whatever reason. 6) Move the model to the <b>same</b> coordinates (eg X = 80, Y = 80, Z = 0) 7) repeat 1-6 for all models you want printed at the same time. Don't use the "mirror" function to duplicate, as mentioned above Cura may sometimes rotate models and then you'll need to un-rotate them. 8) Select and delete all the WHITE models (you'll now be left with just the COLOR models) 9) Slice your Gcode. 10) Press CTRL+Z to undo delete 11) This time select and delete all the COLOR models, leaving only the WHITE. 12) Slice your Gcode. 13) 3D print the COLOR models. Make sure you either add Gcode to keep the print bed warm post-printing so that the models don't move after printing (I assume this can be done, haven't tried), or make a note of how long it'll take to print and after it's done make sure the print bed doesn't cool down (I opted to just do this since I was only printing a few minutes worth at a time). 14) Change your filament for color you'd want the base of the token to be, taking care to not disturb your already printed models. 15) Print the WHITE models using the base filament color. Now you have some two-tone tokens :) If your printer does any leveling probing you may need to disable that before you do the second, overlaid print or else it'd think something's wrong.