Portable AC Reversal Adapter

thingiverse

My portable air conditioner sucks. Quite literally. As they all do. Here's the problem: it takes in air at room temperature. Part of it it blows out back into the room, cooler. The other part is sent out a hose, hotter, out a special panel in the window to the outdoors. But what does that give you? NEGATIVE PRESSURE. Something has to replace the air that was blown out the window. Air is sucked in under doors and through cracks everywhere. And when I'm keeping my room as the one cool sanctuary in a toasty warm house amid the scorching heat of the California Central Valley, whatever air comes seeping back in is a good deal warmer than the cool room I'm trying to maintain. It's hopeless! This machine cannot keep more than half the room cool, at best. What if you could turn it around? What if the air conditioner sat outside the house and transformed hot air into hotter air outdoors, while sending a stream of cool air through a hose indoors. Now you have POSITIVE PRESSURE and the oldest, warmest air in the room is being squeezed out the cracks while cool air permeates the room. But no, we won't sell you one of those. You might trip over the outdoor extension cord and kill yourself and sue us! So I did it myself. I made this adapter. On one end the hose snaps into it, as it would have snapped into the back of the air conditioner. On the other end it fits neatly over the gently curved vent where the cold air comes out – held in place with duct tape (put to its original, intended use!) So the hose is carrying cold air, in through the same window opening where it used to carry hot air out. This particular adapter fits an Idylis 0625615 and would probably fit most Idylis models with minor adjustments to the vent fitting. Print Settings Printer: FlashForge Creator Pro Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.3 mm Notes: I printed in ABS, because in my climate PLA can soften and deform the summer heat. I was having trouble maintaining adhesion with a large ABS part. The thin “ears” that you see on the raw printed part, when taped down with Scotch tape, greatly stabilized the print! They are removed as "brim". You will need a few millimeters height of support in the area where the hose slides into the connector, bottom front of the part. But see to it that support is not generated up inside of the connector–you will never get it out cleanly! Depending on your printing program, this may require some manual work on the support. Post-Printing Remove the "ears" and brim and cut off the thin partial ring that completes the circle on the bottom of the part. This allows the hose to slide and snap into the connector.