Prototype: 3D Printed HOT SWAP Mechanical keyboard.

thingiverse

THIS IS A PROTOTYPE This is a set of a TKL (normal size, full height TKL 80%) and matching NumPad. Both consist of a plate, on which the switches are mounted, a "pcb" on which the hot swap sockets are placed and a base, in which the USB-C breakout board is screwed in, and wired to the controller. Project completion notice; The keyboard is done. I have no intentions of tinkering with the designs anymore, unless someone suggests a (valid and needed) improvement. Update April 30th - Added uncut plate, pcb and base for the TKL so you can make your own cut (.05 mm gap worked perfectly for me) - Moved the m2 nut/bolt holes slightly for nicer print Update April 29th - I created a custom version of the base just for myself that includes a USB hub and Type A socket, demo on youtube. - I updated the Base; I removed the two bolt holes on top and bottom; they didn't do much. Left the one in the middle, but not using it myself. - I also noticed the socket pillars were mis aligned. It is a wonder I haven't pushed out socket ;) Moved the pillars to the correct position. - Fixed 2 screw holes that got plugged in v3. - Updated the Plate; it now has 2 slots for M2 nut and 2 tunnels for matching bolt (M2x8 should suffice, to make the plate solid. It should give a cleaner look, and easier assembly. Update April 27th I noticed, while (finally) assembling my numpad, that the hotswap socket pillar under the zero (2u) key was missing and 2 regular 1u pillars were there. stupid. I used cutters and glue, but of course, I updated the design. -> Numpad base v3 Also, I updated the PCB to reduce the width of some plate supports as they interfered with the stabilizers. -> Numpad PCB v3 Update April 23rd This message is typed on the as-good-as-completed keyboard. It took a while, but I finally finished the soldering. My final findings on this project as I will be taking an extended break from it; The design is fundamentally flawed; To hold in the hot swap sockets, the pillars are required as I did not want to have to glue them in. But these pillars also cause major headaches assembling the keyboard. I will be thinking of a new method, but don't hold your breath. New design for the bottom is added Bottom housing has screws to make it one piece, however, I found that keeping the bottom as two separate pieces makes assembly a lot easier, though the keyboard now is less sturdy. Added a picture of my soldering work. As you can see, I'm not very good at it, but it works. Had to move a dataline last minute to a new pin (E0) as the pin i used (D6) is an LED pin, causing weirdness (auto repeating column) Summary; This was a fun project, but also a very stressful project. I will not be doing this again. My next project, if I start another, will be based on a hot-swap PCB, manufactured by PCBWay or JLCPCB. Final note; This is still very much a prototype. In the time it took me to create this, a lot of other projects popped up, some with nicer designs, some with better construction. I wish you all happy 3D printing, happy Keeb-ing and see you in the next one. --- end of update ---