Prusa i3mk3/s octoprint rpi + camera mount

Prusa i3mk3/s octoprint rpi + camera mount

prusaprinters

<p>I couldn't find a raspberry pi holder / octoprint server that i liked, so i designed my own.</p><p>[Project video here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80kXBwF7VbI) (It really helps my channel if you engage with the video, im also more responsive to comments / questions you youtube than I am on thingiverse):</p><p><br>additional materials needed (you probably have some of these already):</p><p>* webcam with 1/4" mount. (I used a Logitech C920): [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JH8T3S)</p><p>* 3A boost/buck converter to power the pi off of the prusa power supply: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078XQ5MWR) **MAKE SURE TO ADJUST THE VOLTAGE BEFORE CONNECTING YOUR PI!!!**</p><p>* loc-line / flexible camera stuff (I bought mine a while back and is no longer listed. You might be able to find it cheaper. I initially went with just one of these, but bought a second and used 1/2 of the second one to add additional length. I currently am using 25 sections of tubing): [link](https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Gooseneck-19-Section-Fusion-Session/dp/B09BZ89XKL/)</p><p>* M3 bolts of various sizes, I have this kit: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KBVZVV)</p><p>* small right angle USB cable for connecting the pi to the prusa control board: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5HS7TI)</p><p>* rpi heatsink. Probably unneeded, but looks cool. I also used the bolts from this in the design, so you might have to drill out a hole or widen the nut insert if you want to use bolts from the above kit): [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VWM4J4L)</p><p>* spade connectors to attach the boost/buck board to the prusa PSU: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1753K2)</p><p>* headers for making power wire to go from the boost/buck board to the pi: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HVBTZ4)</p><p>* wire: needed, not gonna link.</p><p>* magnets (only needed if you also print the door brace) [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07842PSJD)</p><p>_____________________________________________<br>STEP files are included, but contain some parts that should be hidden, couldn't figure out how to export a single body in fusion 360.<br>_____________________________________________</p><p>useful octoprint settings and such:</p><p>**Octoprint disconnects from wifi and doesn't reconnect**:<br>```<br># edit /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf and add the following before the network={} block:</p><p>ap_scan=1<br>autoscan=periodic:10<br>disable_scan_offload=1<br>```</p><p>**Get camera working in octoprint**<br>```<br># edit /boot/octopi.txt</p><p>set camera="usb"<br>set camera_usb_options="-r 1920x1080 -f 15"</p><p>```</p><p>**Disable camera auto focus / white balance / brightness stuff (needed for clean looking timelapses - go to http(s)://&lt;your-octoprint-server&gt;/webcam/?action=stream to get a full screen webcam view while changing settings**<br>```<br>### install needed utility<br>sudo apt install v4l-utils</p><p>### list settings / current values<br>v4l2-ctl --list-ctrls-menus</p><p>### values that work well for me:</p><p># exposure ( note, exposure_auto=1 is manual, 3 is auto. this is confusing!)<br>v4l2-ctl -c exposure_auto=1<br>v4l2-ctl -c exposure_auto_priority=0<br>v4l2-ctl -c exposure_absolute=600<br>v4l2-ctl -c gain=255</p><p># focus - will take some messing with<br>v4l2-ctl -c focus_auto=0<br>v4l2-ctl -c zoom_absolute=0<br>v4l2-ctl -c focus_absolute=65</p><p># didn't notice a difference with this setting personally<br>v4l2-ctl -c backlight_compensation=0</p><p># color / image settings (don't worry if your camera goes green when you set auto=0, 3000 is a good start, higher is warmer, lower is cooler)<br>v4l2-ctl -c white_balance_temperature_auto=0<br>v4l2-ctl -c white_balance_temperature=3050<br>v4l2-ctl -c sharpness=140<br>v4l2-ctl -c brightness=120<br>v4l2-ctl -c contrast=120<br>v4l2-ctl -c saturation=110<br>```<br>&nbsp;</p>

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