Prusa MK3S Extruder Cooler - With Filament cooler!

thingiverse

UPDATE!!! V3 NEW VERSION V3 Many kept asking me for the MMU2S version of my cooler. This new version will fit on all version with the normal prusa steppers. No adjustments to the extruder needed. Just grab the new files and have fun! Also added a Filament cooler for the MMU2S. Look it up in thew files.. It's 2 mm shorter then the Original. For the people that don't like to slice I already prepared a good working Gcode for PETG. I also added the 3FM file so you have a good basic start and can edit to your own settings. Happy printing! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi, This upgrade has been designed to cool the extruder motor, cool the filament and gears inside the body. It only adds 20gr on filament and max 10 grams from the noctua fan. What do you need: 1x - 40x40x10 5V fan (Any brand will do I think. I choose a noctua like is used for the heatsink. This gaves me a long enough cable to reach the EINSY) 4x - sockethead screw M3 x 10 (Maybe not even really needed) Now lets go and assemble this thing! I also added some pictures for if you get lost. People that builded the prusa themself will have a walk in the park with this one. 1. First we need to remove the old filament sensor cover. Just remove the sockehead M3 on top and get rid of this plate. 2. After you have printed the part clean it up as nice as you like and slide it over the extrusion motor as shown in the photo. Be carefull with the wires! When it's nice in place the holes on the filament sensor cover will align with the filament & screw hole. 3. Place the fan in the top socket (Be carefull with the cable!). Set it to blow inside (You can turn it later) and use the 4x M3x10 socketheads to carefully tighten the fan. The fan snugs in pretty nice so you can leave the screws out if you want. Now Place the wire behind the cable mount on the back of the cooler. 4. Now the hardest part if you never assembled the printer. Now loosen the heatsink fan (Noctua cooler on side) so you get a clear path to the cable channel behind it. Tug in the new cable and reassemble the Noctua fan again. Be carefull not to pinch cables! 5. On the back of your printer you need to snap all 5 binders on the cable guide and loosen the 4 screws that hold the coverplate in place. take off the cover for the rail where all cables go in. Be carefull with the hot-end thermalcouples they are kinda fragile! 6. There is not a lot of space but you need to push the fan connector through the hole with all other cables and manage the cables nicely togheter. Put back the cover plate so all cables are back in place. 7. Guide the fan cable through the sleeve and go all the way to the EINSY board. If your cable ain't long enough just extend it with a simple small cable. Just mark down the red and black cable so they dont get swapped. 8. Once you are inside of the EINSY cover you need to take a good look on your connector. If you have a 3 pin connector cut off the yellow one (Speed controller) and make the connector small enough to fit in the red and black connector into the port on the picture. 9. Make sure you don't swith the 5V with the null cable. If you turn on the printer it might fry ther fan. These types of fans don't handle the current from the other direction. Look at my photo's what connector to use and wich collor goes where. The NULL (Black) is on top. 10. Switch on the printer to check if the fan is turning. If it's not shut of immediately!!! you might be killing something in there. Check all previous steps and try again. If the fan blows the air out on top turn it around. 11. Just stick in the filament cooler on the side (Gently) and have fun printing.