qidi x max - bmg & and v6 upgrade

thingiverse

update 1: printed a lot of parts now. Currently for the BLV printer. Not a single clog, even at very tight Z height which would 100% clog the original extruder. yes, the print looks awful with wrong settings, but the BMG extruder just push through no matter what. amazing ======= Edit: put electrical tape around the bearings on the X axis. They are 19mm by standard, but on enough so they are 21mm. Edit2: as I feared, the fan duct is slowly Melting close to the heat block. The fan duct should be printer with Polycarbonate or nylon-carbon filament.I have added a picture of a Carbonfiber-nylon fanduct. Print at with 100% fan speed as the strength isnt needed, but you want to avoid sagging edit3: attached is picture of a double-sides tape with a roughly 5mm plastic block. Its to move the Y endstop a tiny bit. Else the motor on Carriage will crash in the Y motor edit4: due to how the motherboard works on the QIDI, extrusion multipler needs to be roughly 0.95. (or 95% flow if using qidi slicer)(and ofc, depending on filament). In firmware, the extruder extrudes exactly 100mm. it works: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ShbbA5RwvzLNkRV66 ===================== This build was trying to solve the following: 1: Poor hotend design. -The heatsink have no direct cooling. The difference between hot and cold zone is large. -PTFE inserts in both normal and High temp extruders. Cant really print over 250C for a long period of time. 2: Weak extruder. This is no problem for PLA and ABS -PETG can build up a lot of backpressure. In combination with the hotend design its very hard to print large things without it clogging halfway or even permanently clogging. ==================== pros: BMG + V6 gives: Strong extruder with 3-1 gear ratio and double gears. This also gives more precise extrusion. V6 hotend seperates hot and cold zone very well. ==================== Cons: you lose some X Y and Z space. X284 Y240 Z290 ==================== Build tips: Use CF-nylon if you can. I did ABS and its OK but not optimal. (ABS wasnt that stiff, and the thermal operating zone is 105°C. CF-nylon is much higher.) the Dual X carriage holes, are meant to be insterted with M3 brass inserts. The holes are 3.6mm. You could screw M4s directly into it also. Firmware update is also provided. For the Part-cooling fan. I ended up applying some Electrical tape inside the exhaust to make it fit snuggly on the top plate. Didnt use the mounting hole for it. ==================== Print tips: Bottomplate: Print as its mounted. Fanduct down. Use supports that touch buildplate. X-carriage: Print upside down. use supports that touch buildplate.' Be careful when removing supports so the pins that hold the belt are intact. Top plate: Print as its mounted. Use supports everywhere (for motor mount) Requires post process: Make sure the underside is as flat as possible so when you screw it into the x-carriage its as flat as you can get it. Cable holder: just print lying down. no supports. Print with 80%> infill and 3 walls Should be printed in PETG, ABS, PC or PA-CF. However printing in PETG makes the supports harder to remove and require some work. ==================== BOM needs a LEFT BMG extruder https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993081695.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4213703duieu68&algo_pvid=802a5946-5b5b-408a-82f0-912b7d59d72b&algo_expid=802a5946-5b5b-408a-82f0-912b7d59d72b-0&btsid=8a37c58b-c691-48a6-887f-7f825d6f79de&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_8,searchweb201603_55 you need to cut off the lid (over the screw) so it will fit under roof of the printer. a V6 extruder kit https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844028127.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.1.147e2686EmRukj Dont use the thermistor. Take the stock Thermocouple sensor and remove the metal head. Insert the threat into the V6 hotend and make sure the set-screw hits the thread. ==================== firmware: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m3rJw4N4mldG7lVNL8Q5ttjyP-QerPnp/view?usp=sharing -Put it on the USB and print the Gcode.