RapidEvolution 80 FPV Quad Frame/Whoop Swap

RapidEvolution 80 FPV Quad Frame/Whoop Swap

prusaprinters

<p>2/2/22 - I've added two .3mf files which contain my complete printer settings for printing the frame in Taulman Glass Alloy, and XT-CF20. As well, there are two .3mf files containing my settings for printing the canopy in TPU, and PCTPE. Head on down to the comments for some detailed discussion on these materials.</p> <p>1/28/22 - After cracking a center member on a couple frames, I beefed it up ever so slightly, and you can find this latest version of the RE 80 included here in the Thing Files, indicated by the, "V2," in the file name. Have not broken this frame since.</p> <p>Note: while all the original files are still included, there are no more variants of the frame (Bomber version,) as both weight, and durability have been optimized in the V2 design. This marks the end of prototyping, and experimentation, and is the last update to this design. The V2 may be considered the Final version. Leave a note in the comments if you discover a bug, or have a suggestion.</p> <p>Also, a link to the canopy probably should have been included from the start. Thanks to Oncefly, for pointing this out in the comments section. Below are links to the canopy.</p> <p>-<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798784">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798784</a> - Fits Caddx Ant, and similar sized nano cams. Up facing USB access for a range of boards.</p> <p>-<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5153998">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5153998</a> - Fits larger body nano cams like Ratel Nano 2, and larger lense nano cameras like Runcam Nano 4. Larger cargo area behind the camera will accomodate an OpenLager module.</p> <p>10/25/21 - I discovered the RE 80 frames didn't actually accommodate a whoop board with motor connectors, making them not very good for swapping whoop parts onto them. This design deficiency (carried over from the TKS 80,) has now been addressed with a redesign of the frame center section. I added two more .stl files with, "Swap," appended to the file name, for the Standard, and the Bomber versions of the frame. The new center section accepts whoop boards with up to 5 connectors (4 motor, 1 camera,) on the bottom, like the HM ELRS 2G4 1S 5in1 for example. Theres enough room to route the motor wires back up between the outside of the connectors, and the center frame section. Original designs are still included.</p> <p>10/21/21 - Added the other two .stl's and updated Summary.</p> <hr/> <p>RapidEvolution 80 - A fully printable FPV drone frame</p> <p>Build - whoop swap, or build from scratch</p> <p>Objective - Start with the great design of the TKS 80 by Tarkusx</p> <p>(<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4670968">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4670968</a>,) and try to make it stronger without increasing weight. I've released designs from three different stages of development, which can be roughly classified as Standard, Lite, and, "Bomber." Each one is incrementally heavier, and with that, hopefully tougher.</p> <p>Early outcome - My standard weight design appears to address the weakness of the thin areas near the motor mounts of the TKS 80, without increasing weight. Only time, and crashes will reveal the truth however. So far, so good.</p> <p>Options - (The following weights are applicable to Sainsmart Carbon Nylon filament.)The Lite version is probably not more durable, but is .1g lighter than TKS 80. I recommend the standard weight which weighs the same as TKS 80. If you like more weight to throw around with bigger motors, or just want better durability, the, "Bomber," edition is for you at the cost of .5 to .8 grams more than standard edition. I don't recall, and ain't measuring again at this moment. I have flown all three a lot, and lighter is always better to me, but the drill out holes near the motor mounts on the Lite are a little sketchy. Never broke mine, but I'm on the standard edition now, and am very pleased. I'll try to edit some video to share. Next is a Bomber edition with 1102's.</p> <p>So far, I've only printed the frame with with Sainsmart Carbon Nylon filament, which is light weight, and pretty tough, but by all means, try out different materials and share the results.</p> <p>Design may be updated as needed.</p> <p>My scratch build:</p> <p>0802 Unibell 19kkv motors by Happymodel</p> <p>Nanohawk AIO modded with NLRC 400W vTX (disabled SPI D8 receiver)</p> <p>Flywoo EL24E ExpressLRS 2.4GHz receiver</p> <p>Solid pin PH2.0 battery connector</p> <p>HQ Prop 40mm triblades</p> <p>Caddx Ant 4:3</p> <p>1S Optimized Toothpick/whoop canopy (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798784">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798784</a>)</p> <p>1S Optimized battery holder</p> <p>TinyLEDs front and rear</p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong></p> <p>Prusa</p> <p><strong>Printer:</strong></p> <p>Prusa Clone</p> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>No</p> <p><strong>Supports:</strong></p> <p>No</p> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong></p> <p>.15mm (quality)</p> <p><strong>Infill:</strong></p> <p>100%</p> <p><strong>Filament:</strong> Sainsmart Carbon Nylon</p> <p>Black How I Designed This ===================</p> <p><strong>Tinkercad</strong></p> <p>I maded dis in TINKer-cad..</p> Category: DIY

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