Rasberry Pi Zero Ender 3 camera mount

thingiverse

This is a professional looking Ender 3 bed-mount for a camera enabled Rasberry Pi Zero (or W). The bed mount is not attached to the heated bed, but below on the bed adjustment datum, this prevents the mount warping due to bed heat , and stops the mass of the mount causing vibration of the spring bed, effecting print quality. I like to make time-lapse of my prints using Octoprint. For the best results the camera needs to be mounted to the Ender 3 bed, so the print is always in a static position relative to the camera. If the camera is not mounted to the printer in this way (for instance on a tripod, or attached to the X/Z frame), the print bed and print will 'teleport' around the viewpoint, spoiling the time lapse. I decided to use a pi zero to keep the moving mass low, and offload some of the processing from my aging PI 3 print server. It is a full kit with all the required printable parts for the Ender 3, you will need 2 or more of the long arm, depending on your mounting preference. I have modified the arms and mount to accept smart looking countersunk screws and brass hot press inserts (pictured above) giving a professional finish with no sharp edges or projecting nuts or bolts, unlike the original design. The camera case has been modified to provide a mounting lug for the arm, and a hole to allow a Pi Zero with GPIO pins to fit (the original case design was for a Pi without GPIO headers). I also moved the camera hole to suit a micro camera on a 40mm cable. This camera folds over onto the back of the Pi board. I used Kapton tape to secure the micro camera to the inside of the front case. If your Pi Zero does not have a header on it, you can use the case back from the original case design. I have included an alternate camera case front that matches the original design with my mounting lug. This camera has a shorter cable and comes on a carrier PCB that my camera does not have. The bed clamp is attached using 2 screws with captive nuts, I used cap heads for this, but you can also use counter sunk screws used for the rest of the mount, as they are not visible. If the invisible projecting countersunk screw-heads offend you :), you can countersink them by using a countersink tool or pressing them into the clamp with a hot soldering iron. Bill of materials:- Raspberry Pi Zero, W (WiFi) is best to keep the cable count down, but I leave the source and type up to you. Pi zero camera:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0769KS7C7 Assortment cheap Chinese brass threaded inserts (M4 x 6mm long):- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QR6GVFJ (See my RAB/BAP board design to see a video instructing how to use hot press inserts with 3D prints). Stainless steel M4 x 20mm hex socket cap countersunk screws and 2 x nuts:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07919Z9SL