Rigidbot Big Acrylic Enclosure

thingiverse

Update: 6.29.2016 After using this for a while, there's a couple of improvements I would recommend. I inserted a webcam and digital thermometer inside. Routing the cables through the z-stop cutout is possible, but you may want to create a notch/hole elsewhere to route the cables out. Temperatures for ABS have been fantastic. Throwing a blanket over the entire unit, I sustain a 54C internal temperature for ABS, resulting in zero warping and extremely predictable prints. By just covering the top of the unit, temps of 45C are consistent. Note: for PLA, you'll likely want to remove the entire front door panel to prevent heat buildup. This is a project for a fully enclosed build chamber for the Rigidbot Big 3D Printer. It is designed to add the absolute minimal amount to the footprint of the printer without compromising the build volume. There is a slight loss in the Z-height at the left edge because of my conservative spacing for material spools. You can regain this by enlarging the relief box, or moving it entirely edge to edge if you don't use the spool rack. It is optimized to be used with 18x24" 5mm (.220") Acrylic that is available in the USA at Lowe's (http://www.lowes.com/pd_239981-1638-1AG2123A_0__?productId=3502292) and Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-220-in-x-18-in-x-24-in-Clear-Acrylic-Sheet-1AG2123A/100260547). You will also need 8 M4 Screws between 12mm and 16mm in length. I used 12mm stainless steel socket cap screws. The M4 screws that come with the printer are not long enough to work. The dimensions for the cut files have been measured and have enough tolerance to account for slight deviations in your printer, but you may still need to do some light clean up work. To glue the joints and the door hinges, you will need Acrylic Cement (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_acrylic_cement/130) and an Applicator (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/supplies_tools/plastic_tools_supplies/hypo_type_solvent_cement_applicator/409) I used one self-closing hinge (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acrylic_hinge_self_closing/609) and two clear acrylic hinges (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acryl_hinge_2/122) and an acrylic pull handle (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acryl_pull_acrylic_handles/120) all from TAP Plastics to assemble the front door. The single springed hinge keeps the door closed, but allows it to stay in a set open position when swung wide open. A normal Rigidbot will need to have the plans altered quite a bit, but should use significantly less material, because it won't require splitting pieces (the RigidbotBig has pieces that are over 24" in length). Instructions Step 0: Glue the 6 marked pieces together - front and back sills, and top relief plate. Step 1: Place the 4 top pieces on the printer Step 2: Place the left side pieces in place, ensuring the Z-limit switch fits in the notched cutout. Slide the tabs into the top piece first, then loosely screw in the 2 screws, then repeat for the other left side piece. Step 3: Building the top relief box. Glue the two plate pieces together as marked. Step 4: Start with the top plate, then attach the two side pieces by slotting them into the top plate tabs. You may need to do some filing to get the center tab (which spans the glue line of the top plate) to fit perfectly. Step 5: Then slide on the endcap piece. Finally set the box on top of the 4 top section pieces. It should slide in with very little resistance. The box does not need to be a tight fit, so file if necessary to get it to sit in smoothly. Step 6: Slot the right back side piece into the top piece tab and relief box tabs, then loosely screw it to the rigidbot chassis. Then repeat with the right front side piece. Step 7: Glue the front sill plate pieces together. Angle the slot into the tab one one side plate until it slots in, then slot it into the other side. This will require some flexing of the side panel pieces (one reason to keep them LOOSELY screwed in). Acrylic can break easily under flex, so be careful during these steps. Step 8: Glue the rear sill plate pieces together. Repeat the process to install it. Step 9: Install the rear edge plates and rear main plate by first slotting them into the top pieces first, then slotting them into the sill piece. Step 10: Install the front edge pieces by first slotting them into the top pieces first, then slotting them into the sill piece. Step 11: Dry fit the front door. It rests on the sill plate but sits in front of the top plate. Tape the door to the left or right edge plate (depending on which way you wish the door to swing open), to ensure you attach it in the correct position. Then remove the edge plate with door, being VERY careful not to put too much bending pressuring on the slots of the top plate or sill plate. Step 12: Glue the hinges to the door and edge plate. Be sure to glue on a very flat, even surface. Also be sure to PRACTICE using the applicator and acrylic cement before attempting this. I had a leaky applicator and had to clamp the needle tip almost completely closed to prevent it from leaking. After the hinges are set, glue on the handle. After letting the cement set for ~24 hours, reattach the edge plate with the door attached. Step 13: Tighten all 8 screws of the side plates to lock everything into place and you have completed your enclosure.