Ritewing Mini Drak Parts

thingiverse

Some parts I created for the Ritewing Mini Drak. VAS 1.3ghz BlueBeam Pro side feed Antenna cup. This is glued on to the top of the coroplast main hatch cover. The antenna lead drops in the vent behind it, as seen in the images below. "Hatch-Cover-Stay-Lip-r1" and "Mid Hatch Front Bridge" allows the BlueBeam Pro Antenna to remain in place and still access the front hatch for battery swap. Hatch-Scoop-Lid-w.Lip Hatch-Scoop-Lid-w.Lip + 5.8ghz Antenna bung Hatch-Scoop-Lid-w.Lip+Immortal-L The above parts are self explanatory. They ALL need the "hatch stay" to work. These are NOT hinged saddle covers, they are captive. Foxeer Mix FPV cam mount Foxeer Mix DVR/Control Board mount-Box All parts EXCEPT the hatch stays are printed in TPU. The hatch covers are 30% infill, Supports are mandatory. When printing the hatch stays, be sure to select "print thin walls" in your slicer. That is what it is called in Cura, no idea what it's called in any other slicer. Print the hatch stays at 100% infill. The "bridge" part is designed to use 3mm x 10mm long standoff's pressed in to the holes. The "Front Latch" is glued with E6000 on to the top center cover. I used glue on the top leading edge lip of the latch to give it more strength. The Foxeer Mix DVR mount presses together. The back section (faces the front of Mini Drak) should be glued into place, but it is not mandatory. It fits nicely, and should remain in place with no problem. The Foxeer Mix FPV camera mount uses 4x 3mm standoffs. 2x 10mm directly below camera sunk and glued into foam, and 2x 20mm sunk and glued into foam. The standoffs below cam are flush. The standoffs below main cover are 3mm proud. (See pics). The latch "bridge" has 3x 2mm holes in each leg. You can cut 4mm long dowels from your leftover 2mm fiberglass spars that came with your mini drak and glue/press them into the foam in the main bay for reinforcement. I used E6000 only, and that thing is not going anywhere. The holes are there for the paranoid among us.