Rostock Mini Acrylic Plans for Mounted Duet 0.8.5

thingiverse

Updated the DXF files provided by Brian Evans for the original Rostock Mini design to include hole for mounting the 100mm by 123mm Duet 0.8.5 printer board. Also took time to add slots for passing through my printers FSR wiring for auto-calibration and decided to replicate the mounting holes along the edge to the remaining two sides of the bed. This should allow the creation of outward facing side panels for the base in the future. For the top, I pushed the squares for the zip-ties to the outer edge to try to better "round out" the wiring from the end stops. Finally, I mirrored the holes for the motor mounts from the base to one corner of the top for a future extruder motor bracket. Overall I am happy with the results, but if I had to do it again, I would have doubled the holes on the edge of the base for 3D printing two sets of side panels per side instead of just repeating the 2 holes from the Duet mount. One side panel would be borderline to long as it is currently laid out. I also should have kept the second set of zip-tie squares on the edge of the base for securing the hotend wiring, which is presently crammed in with the endstop wiring. Print Settings Printer: BOSS 1416 Laser Engraver Rafts: No Supports: No Notes: Using a BOSS 1416 laser cutter with a 60W laser, it took approximately 6 minutes to cut the base and 4 minutes to cut the top out of two sheets of 12" x 12" x 0.236" (~5mm) cast acrylic. Multiple cuts were needed as we were experimenting with settings and came up with 60% at 5mm/sec for the base. Still needed a second pass when cutting the top, so consider increasing to 65% to 75% power. How I Designed This I had access to Adobe Illustrator CC through work that I was able to install on my home computer and use to import / open Brian Evan's original frame.dxf file (included with the files) before saving as a CC Illustrator file (*.ai). After making my adjustments and edits, separating the base and top, setting the stroke to 0.25pt, I then exported the file as an R13/LT95 DXF file. That seemed to work great for laser cutting.