S4 Avant Lighted Logo

prusaprinters

<h3>S4 Avant Lighted Logo</h3>This was a design I created as a retirement gift one of my best friends (lovingly nick named The Douche, no seriously, lovingly).  He had recently purchased an S4 Avant so I found this to be a fitting tribute to the car.  While my bro does have some good taste, he just didn’t have good enough taste to drive something like my RS7.  The body outline of this was made directly from a profile view of the car itself. Extrusion of the badge logo was then done to add depth.  This is an exceedingly difficult project to print so this writeup will be long.  If you already know everything (like my kids), don’t both reading just download and print! Each print (except for the brackets) is a dual color print.  I used silver PLA to print the top layer of the logo letters/numbers, and the top ring of the box.  I tried half a dozen times to do a multilayer overprint (print two prints on top of each other) of the red box.  Due to the difference in material colors (red -vs- silver -vs- clear) I could never get it to stop warping in some manner.  Finally, I settled on two separate prints and then fitting them together and securing with hot glue.  I will include the PLA brand and types I used in the parts list.<h5>Print Setup:</h5><ul><li>Material:  PLA (colored for the top layer, clear for the walls)</li><li>Quality:  .12mm</li><li>Temp:  200°C</li><li>Bed:   67°C</li><li>Print Speed:  50mm/s, first layer at 20mm/s</li><li>Walls: 3</li><li>Supports:  None</li><li>Infill:  <ul><li>100% for clear walls </li><li>20-50% for top surface</li><li>Use support blockers to modify infill based on layer height</li></ul></li></ul>Overprinting (maybe not the proper term).Essentially what will you be doing for the body and the windows is printing two different prints on top of each other.  Amazingly this works well if done correctly.  To have different colors on the first layer (without a tool changer) you will have to separate them into different prints.  Load the front (or rear) window model into the slicer and move it aside.  Load the front (or rear) body model into the slicer as well.  All models should be printed flat surface down (using a glass bed helps with finish quality).  Once you have rotated the body to fit on the bed, rotate the window as required and then align it as close as possible to the window opening in the body model.  I’m pretty certain you can do this better with some kind of plug-in, but I did mine manually.  Model Rotated to fit.                                                  <figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:59.38%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/274891/rich_content/0a16ee99-7b1c-4b2d-a92f-ab05fedef6a3/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22f00bbfe7-64e9-46cf-9255-793959782ab4%22%2C%22w%22%3A373%2C%22h%22%3A453%7D" alt="A picture containing yellow Description automatically generated"></figure> Window not quite aligned (red)<figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:73.51%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/274891/rich_content/58750323-f2a5-4fc2-946a-90feff9f4e38/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%224eb308c5-8ea0-4518-aa5f-c5543ebd85b7%22%2C%22w%22%3A477%2C%22h%22%3A370%7D" alt="Chart, radar chart Description automatically generated"></figure> Properly aligned (no red)<figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:80.84%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/274891/rich_content/6a1917e8-d857-4b50-90bd-ad52cd7de7c3/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22494a1b2d-d2c6-46d6-8cfc-0587fd104fb7%22%2C%22w%22%3A318%2C%22h%22%3A246%7D"></figure> Since I ain’t so smrt I created two gcode files using “undo” (CTRL+Z for you Windozers and CMD+Z for Macrs).  Once the models were aligned, I deleted the body model, sliced, saved, then used the “undo” function which replaces the deleted model in its previous location.  Next, I deleted the window model and sliced the file again and saved the new file.  Take these two files to the printer and start printing (window first) with the black PLA. Watch carefully and as soon as the print finishes, make sure the bed remains warm, and start the body print.  This will work well so long as the height difference doesn’t exceed the angle of the print nozzle.  Too many layers will result in the nozzle dragging or rubbing against the edges of the first print.Bryan Vines has a great video (<a href="https://youtu.be/t8PpQtInVhE">https://youtu.be/t8PpQtInVhE</a>) demonstrating this technique.  I found it after I had figured out about 90% of the process.  Like I said, I aint so smrt. Dual Color PrintingThis is a pretty simple process and was described in my “rocket ship” design.  I’d recommend at least 3mm of top layer height before switching to the clear PLA. Less than that and you will have light diffusion problems.  As stated above, the models should printed face down.  Figure out how many layers (once sliced) are required to get to the 3mm surface height.  Insert a “Pause at layer height” or a “filament change” gcode command (or post processing script as Cura calls it) at that layer height.  Switch out your filament colors, purge, clean the nozzle from any strings resulting from extruder pressure, and continue the print. Assembly NotesYou will notice in one picture of the back side of the box model that there is cardboard backing on the LED strip.  This was done to minimize the diffusion into to the red PLA.  After I assembled this, I noticed that it was so bright it was silhouetting the NodeMCU controller leading to a less professional appearance.  The material you use to stop the light is up to you, but I felt this was needed to enhance the final look of the piece. I included a slim version of my NodeMCU mounting box in this design. It’s not required but does help clean up the wiring nightmare this model became.  With this model, just as I did with the Audi logo, I wanted a very specific LED sequence and order.  To do this I wired the segments in a sequential order.  This required a ton of splices and took several hours to solder into place. The videos show why this is important and worth the time.<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/DFU5C9Hpu-M"></oembed></figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/XcooaTlodU0"></oembed></figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/CEPqdcZS1SQ"></oembed></figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/hlj6qkpEImc"></oembed></figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/eNsO3EJOmUM"></oembed></figure><h3> </h3><h3>Parts</h3>Red:  HATCHBOX 1.75mm Red PLA 3D Printer Filament, 1 KG Spool, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 3D Printing Filament <figure class="image image-style-align-left image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/274891/rich_content/18767079-1fcc-4936-bb4a-0f57a5a46fb7/screen-shot-2022-09-12-at-10057-pm.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22d1a89a84-23fe-4155-ae86-8be1dff2e76a%22%2C%22w%22%3A1058%2C%22h%22%3A1070%7D"></figure>           <a href="https://a.co/d/euLn8ed">https://a.co/d/euLn8ed</a>Silver:  eSUN Silk PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Silver<figure class="image image-style-align-left image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/274891/rich_content/44fd3094-6f25-4702-bb01-745cea7f2f6f/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22e489d51d-638d-4338-ad05-2bf9824c57fa%22%2C%22w%22%3A800%2C%22h%22%3A820%7D"></figure>           <a href="https://a.co/d/7bkw84M">https://a.co/d/7bkw84M</a>Clear:  TECBEARS PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm Transparent, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, 1 Kg Spool<figure class="image image-style-align-left image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/274891/rich_content/681f044a-2f81-4e52-be45-26046c7eb8d8/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22ac62ca08-b699-447d-9abd-3cc0418b3017%22%2C%22w%22%3A800%2C%22h%22%3A788%7D"></figure>           <a href="https://a.co/d/0aknRkZ">https://a.co/d/0aknRkZ</a> LED StripAclorol WS2812B 144 Pixels Individually Addressable RGB LED Strip 5V, 3.3ft Programmable WS2812B WS2812 1M 144 LEDs Dream Color Strip Lighting<img class="image_resized" style="width:50%;" src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/272866/rich_content/2f901812-3156-4042-aa37-b3d71d6b04df/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%220799452c-6075-478f-abe6-3c3c1fa3ae56%22%2C%22w%22%3A504%2C%22h%22%3A447%7D" alt="A picture containing indoor Description automatically generated"><a href="https://a.co/d/aswPgY3">https://a.co/d/aswPgY3</a>I used a less dense version of LED strip lights in my own project. However, I’ve used the ones linked here and they provide smoother animation due to their increased LED density. I have no recommendation of one brand over another.  The only real requirement is that they be ProgrammableWS2812B or WS2812 style lights. These lights can be cut and spliced together over gaps as needed by simply soldering on connection wires between segments.  As with all LED Strip lights that are programmable and being used with a NodeMCU controller, splicing power to each segment is needed in longer applications.  This project will not require any additional power due to its short length. LED Power SupplySHNITPWR 5V Power Supply 5 Volt 10A 50W AC 100V ~ 240V to DC Power Adapter Converter Transformer 5.5x2.5mm Plug for WS2812B WS2811 LED Pixel Strip<figure class="image image-style-align-left image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/274891/rich_content/1f92d02e-34fb-448b-9de0-92a82bfb46c4/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22c96cb98a-991b-4f6b-af19-2b49e7ecab62%22%2C%22w%22%3A1332%2C%22h%22%3A1322%7D"></figure>           <a href="https://a.co/d/8ZxBjxQ">https://a.co/d/8ZxBjxQ</a>This is a larger version of the other power supplies that you have seen in my projects.  This is due to the higher number of LEDs because I used the high density LEDs (300/m) to get better resolution on the effects.  These LEDs will draw a larger amount of power so before final assembly, power up the project and leave it powered on.   Check the temperatures of the connector, cabling, and LEDs.  PLA gets soft around 60°C.  My initial assembly using the plug in connector (the one with the green face in the pic above) was a failure.  It was on for a few minutes and apparently there was a ground fault internal to the connector resulting in the connector reaching temps high enough to soften its own plastic as well as the glue used to secure it.  I cut the end of the power supply off and wired it directly into the LEDs.  You have been warned and using that connector could result in a dangerous condition. NodeMCU ControllerKeeYees 3pcs ESP8266 ESP-12E Development Board WiFi WLAN Wireless Module CP2102 for NodeMCU for ESP-12E for Arduino<img class="image_resized" style="width:50%;" src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/272866/rich_content/db26b3ad-17d0-4049-8cfc-73fe72a9a379/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22b56eef63-e4ad-4e4c-8785-0d1666e57a9b%22%2C%22w%22%3A828%2C%22h%22%3A794%7D" alt="A picture containing text, electronics, circuit Description automatically generated"><a href="https://a.co/d/0seFCnx">https://a.co/d/0seFCnx</a>Again, I’m not recommending a specific brand of NodeMCU, but rather one that will support the running of WLED.  These just so happened to work well in 6 different projects I’ve done.  The box that I have designed is based on these controllers and their dimensions. LED Splice WireRGBZONE 10M 22AWG 3PIN LED Light Strip Cable Cord, Extension Cable Line Wire for WS2812b WS2811 Dream Color Led Strip Lights <img class="image_resized" style="width:50%;" src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/272866/rich_content/5f6feb40-068a-4581-a193-782f21a5b001/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%222cac9a81-6ac5-483c-9ea9-e98b20d3bba2%22%2C%22w%22%3A450%2C%22h%22%3A491%7D" alt="Icon Description automatically generated"><a href="https://a.co/d/6zARbn9">https://a.co/d/6zARbn9</a>I had other wire laying around that was used.  I would recommend any 3 wire LED Strip Wire that you can find. The one linked here is an example only. You’ll need a section of this wire to join each individual segment that will be glued into the loops.  Solder each end (a total of 6 solder joints) of the splice and it will allow you have one continuous strip light.  It may be possible to widen out the holes between the loops to accommodate a continuous LED strip as well.  I chose the option of splicing because I wanted a specific order and pattern style. <h4>WLED</h4>WLED is an amazing program that was written by Aircookie (and many other contributors) that is used to control addressable LED lights.  The capabilities that the WLED program has is astounding.  When I first started making lighted logos, I used the following links to start getting a handle on how this all works and what parts I would need. Basic use of WLED, the NodeMCU, and some excellent LED project guidance:<a href="https://youtu.be/tXvtxwK3jRk">https://youtu.be/tXvtxwK3jRk</a> Great beginner projects and a solid method on the basics of using a controller and LED strip lights:<a href="https://tynick.com/blog/11-03-2019/getting-started-with-wled-on-esp8266/">https://tynick.com/blog/11-03-2019/getting-started-with-wled-on-esp8266/</a> GIT Hub WLED Project:<a href="https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/releases">https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/releases</a> WLED home page.  Contains great information and instructions on the use of the software:<a href="https://kno.wled.ge/">https://kno.wled.ge/</a>

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