Scrap Copper Wire Stripper Block

Scrap Copper Wire Stripper Block

thingiverse

Update: 7/25/19 Removed excess part. Made it more printer/material friendly, removed bulk, shortened the path for the wire to get to the blade, should make for easier loading & pulling. Added 2 new 3.5mm diameter through holes in the bottom & rear to better support the assembled structure. Story: We (wife and I) found a large pile of stranded copper wire in a scrap pile. The outer diameter is around 3.2mm so we decided to start stripping the sheathing and recycle the copper. If you don't have a machine to strip wire, it gets tedious & painful. We tried wedging razors in wood with a hole drilled through to guide the wire with limited success. After shifting & sliding, the blade kept getting out of position causing more repair than stripping so I came in & opened TinkerCad to put in some work. I'm really novice at modeling, and I haven't (at the time of this writing, will update later) printed it yet. Assembly Notes: It will require M3 machine screws and matching nuts to assemble. Haven't done the overall measuring there yet either, will update later. Once you lay the razor in the recess in block A, mate block B to it, insert M3 machine screws in all holes & (with washers) tighten the nuts. Do not use the forward top or bottom screw holes (end where the blade protrudes in to the wire channel) if you plan to use the mounting block. Screw the mounting block down to a workbench or surface with the two through holes on either side. Then insert a longer M3 screw through the through holes in the top of the mount, through the two blocks. This will secure it all together. If you don't want to use the bench mount, just insert all screws & tighten accordingly. I apologize if this isn't perfect, it is a work in progress! Note: The reason for the seemingly excessive amount of through holes for M3 screws around the blade recess is to keep the blade from slipping between the blocks, out of the recess during extended use/strain. -ALSO- I recommend 3 walls (perimeters) because when in use, it will be under a lot of flex & strain.

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