Silicone Heated Bed Bushings

thingiverse

22/06/16 - Follow up video published I saw this silicone bushings mould before however it was designed for a Prusa Frog carriage, which wouldn't work for mine as it is simply a flat base. So this gives you 4 16mm tall 10mm hick M3 bushings to replace the springs on your heated bed. You can make it with simple builders caulk. The idea is that they'll get rid of that final bit of z wobble by allowing more even pressure and absorbance of inertia. See below for assembly and use, I'll upload some pictures/video of them in situ plus test prints when I can. Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Prusa i3 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 20% Notes: These figures are arbitrary. You just need there shape and a decent base for M3s to screw into. Post-Printing Moulding Your Bushings Once its printed you'll want 4 M3s at 20mm or longer. These are going to create the centres of the bushings. Set down your mould with lots of paper towels, you'll need this for the goop. Use your builder's caulk, fill with the nozzle from the very bottom working your way up. This is easier than filling around the screws and means you get into the corners. Now comes the messy part... You have to put your screw in through the goop and through the hole. When you've managed this wipe off any excess. I left to dry for 4 days before removing the screws. They should just thread out making a slightly rubbery sound telling you its set. Leave to dry further as the enlarged surface area will help excess moisture evaporate. When you're sure its dry, take a sharp knife and using a fast, slowly progressing sawing motion trim the excess off the tops of the bushings. Use tweezers (or other method) to pull them out, be careful not to damaged them too much. Follow Up