SmartRap Metal Plates

thingiverse

Ok against my better judgement I am posting these for your guys to look at. Details: 1) The V2 file is just an idea of how things would fit. The blocks on which the pulleys are are just there for illustration, as are the pillow blocks. I would be using a spacer in between the pillow blocks as that is far easier. 2) The V3 and the bottom plate allow me to 'sandwich' the vertical motors between them. That's the extruder, Z and X axis motors. 3) Some slot mounts on the screws in the corners allow me to slot 'walls' which turn the bottom of the SmartRap into a box and allows me to put rubber feet 4) I am using a Melzi which is currently mounted under my table, but can now be mounted inside the box and introducing a CNC-ed 'wall' that has openings for the SD card, power connection, reset switch and whatever else I feel like. This makes the machine look more 'professional' 5) I am machining this out of 6mm Aluminum plate. I like 6061-T6 for corrosion resistance and strength. Why? Because I plan a head that holds a Dremel tool extension to allow me to CNC and laser engrave with this machine. So, ignore the fact that my STLs show 6.4mm, that was just so I can overlay it on top of the original plastic plate STLs. 6) The intent is NOT to print these plates, rather, any printed version is simply to act as a template/guide to use on my material. If one of you prints a set of these plates, test fits steppers, rods and pillow blocks (you can get a sample from thing 178531) and lets me know before Thursday, I will make a set of plates for you. If all fits well anyone who wants a set of aluminum plates can contact me directly. The material costs $21 (which includes shipping) and say throw in another $15 and I'll send you plates back. BUT do not do so until we know all the holes line up and we determine that you can bolt on the extruder. 7) I left out the holes for the AirTripper, but that's next. My intent is to test make one, take one of my standalone AirTripper's and bolt that on. I will then add the holes for that. I am also considering the all metal Printrbot extruder which I have as well. 8) After these plates, I will address Plate X. I already have a design but I haven't tweaked it yet. 9) Ultimately my SmatRaps will be all metal and if you choose to use this your End-Ys will NOT WORK. You will need to redo these to line up with the pillow blocks. Again, give me time to get it done. Based on what I am seeing, your X-ends will likewise need to change. My intent, again, is to make that all metal too. As you will have guessed, I like metal. A lot. And if you guys give me enough encouragement, I will be making kits and assembled versions available. This in addition to 2 other designs I have already prototyped. But please understand that this is not meant to be printed for production use....you can certainly try, but caveat emptor. Samer Update: I uploaded a new file to make 4 corners that can be printed or machined to allow for the introduction of walls. Update: Just uploaded some modified Y-Ends. You could use what you already have and drill a new hole, or use these. These are printable, but I will be uploading metal versions which are flat pieces later today. Those will be machined out of 6mm aluminum plate as well. Another Update: Ok so I've uploaded the machinable Y ends. For these, you will see I added a belt clamp. The holes are 3mm, and I suggest you tap these holes so you don't have to use nuts and so can make adjustments with just one tool (like an allen key). On the thin edge of these, drill and tap 2 holes so that you can screw in a table. I also made these ends 6" long to fully support a table and allow you to mount end stops and whatever else you want. I didn't put holes for those because there are so many out there, you can choose what you want to do. Update 04/19/14:I have machined 2 sets of plates, one for me and one for Chris M who is also in the SmartRap world. The plates work out well, but I need to revisit my design for the corners. I should just have a set that slips right over the edges. This is because the Z- axis motor is really close to the edge and one of the holes for it is really close to the corner holes. What's that you say? You want me to make you a set? Why sure, but give me a week or so to wrap up this build..... Update 04/21/14: As you can see I now have walls. Those were printed and I will post them shortly. You will also need 4 clamps to hold the 8mm rods in place, and those I had to print as well because the metal ones I have are slightly too large. I might be able to cast replacements at some point. Later this week I will post the X plate which will be made with 26ga aluminum sheet and angle. That just leaves 2 more printed parts, the X ends. The Y ends will be replaced with aluminum angle. More details: the pillow blocks are pre-tapped for #6-32 screws, so you don't need nuts and can cut those down to disappear inside the pillow blocks. The holes should be reamed out to an oval shape 'downwards' (away from the back of the top plate) to accommodate variations in hole positions on the steppers and to allow for alignment of the pillow blocks. 3/16" should do fine -- use washers to distribute the load. The RAMPS board can go inside the box and you can choose to add walls of your own and mount an LCD right on there, or print something suitable and bolt it on (I will do this for mine and post an example). Finally, put rubber feet on the bottom to give it some traction. Update 4/23/14: Made some progress today. I am going with a Melzi instead of a RAMPS because I want to put a Panelolu 2 LCD controller on it like my original SmartRap. I cut 2 pieces of 1"x1"x1/8" angle at 9" each to make up the Y ends. You have to drill 6 holes in each. 2 big holes drilled oversize for the 8mm rod (you need some play for alignment) and 4 (2 per clamp) for the rod clamps, which I include here. What that mounted, the only thing left is to mount your end stop. For that, choose a location for the end stop and mount it on the base plate, then mount a screw secured with 2 nuts at the angle. This is your adjustment for the end stop. You can move the screw back and forth to adjust where you tap switch gets hit. Next up, the X Plate....again. Update 06/12/14: I posted some additional pictures. As you can see the printer is almost done. What I did was add acrylic walls, although I have also provided someone with aluminum walls. This completely encloses the 'guts' and allows you to hide unsightly wiring. This week we wrap up the build and install the Sanguilolu board (instead of the full RAMPS just for aesthetics). I should have the milling attachment installed next week. I am also using an excellent non servo based autoleveling system as designed by quick61 (thing 301007). The laser engraver attachment will use a variation of this, as will the CNC head. Update 6/18/2014: Some of you have asked for the SVGs of the plates. Here they are. Please note that you should drill the holes for mounting the steppers oversize to accommodate my ineptitude and variations in manufacture. Also if you guys are interested in latest developments, please see this: http://3dprint.com/6202/3-in-1-3d-printer-cnc-machine/