SMDquick Solderless Surface Mount to Breadboard Prototyping Socket for SSOP or SC70 components (0.65mm pitch,16 or fewer pins)

thingiverse

This was designed to replace something like this (http://www.aprilog.com/images/20SSO17-D6-ZL.jpg), the likes of which are typically sold for around $50-75 each. It can hold one component with 16 or fewer pins, or several smaller components (e.g. two 8-pin components), at once. Without modification, mine securely holds an SC70 package in place without movement or shorting, though I recommend ensuring that no pins are accidentally shorted together when inserting a component into the socket. I highly recommend that you use magnet wire (rather than standard insulated wire), both for ease of assembly and appearance (I think you'll agree that mine looks a bit ridiculous). See the instructions for more details. Instructions Print at 0.1mm layer thickness, with support material for the overhangs of the bottom half of the assembly. I recommend printing at least two of these at a time, to allow the final layers of the print sufficient time to cool, even when using a cooling fan. No trimming or other surface preparation should be needed between print and assembly. To secure the hinge, I inserted a piece of insulated 26 gauge wire through the holes and trimmed the excess. For the pins, I used two 8-pin segments of SIP header (0.1" pin spacing), which I soldered to a 4 hole by 8 hole piece of perf-board (you can use a breadboard, as pictured, to hold them steady and perpendicular to the perf-board while doing so). The piece of SC70 PCB was cut from a larger board from my scrap pile, and was measured to be 9.56mm x 5.77mm x 1.7mm (for which I allowed 9.7mm x 5.9mm x 1.9mm in the model). In the future, it would be easier to use something like this (http://www.amazon.com/20PCS-SOP28-SSOP28-TSSOP28-Adapter/dp/B00O9YJ1US), and adapt the model to fit these (this should be trivial). I soldered the pins, one to one, using the smallest gauge wire I had on hand at the time (which I hot-glued in place to prevent any movement), though as this was vastly too large, the whole thing ended up looking like a facehugger from Alien. Insulated magnet wire of gauge 26 or higher would be much better for this, though I had just ran out. Hot-glue or otherwise secure the printed body to the perf-board. When you are done, check your connections with a multimeter or continuity tester, and ensure that you did not accidentally short adjacent pins together. Enjoy!