Solidoodle 3 heated bed upgrade

thingiverse

EDIT: this ended up not working for me. if you go this route I would recommend making a mold of this 3d printed part, then casting it in high-temperature epoxy. This is meant as an alternative to Lawsy's jigsaw-style heated bed upgrade, for people with access to a larger print area who want to replace the entire aluminum bed instead of modifying it to allow for a fitted upgrade: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1819/heated-bed-upgrade-guide-with-picscomparisonsstls/ EDIT: I just realized all the images are down and the links don't work. To upgrade the jumpers check this image out: http://imgur.com/oJf6fX2 and the heated bed I purchased was this guy: http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=61. You'll also have to change the thermistor table in order to get accurate readings and upgrade the power supply to supply enough power to the components I designed this specifically for my qu-bd silicone pad, so you might have to move the position of the electronics well in order to get it to work properly, and it may not work with other beds. Make sure you upgrade the traces or find a different way to supply power to the bed or you risk burning out the electronics; the forum link above should show you how. the design is not entirely stress-free on the glass and normal window glass has been cracking on me with heavy binder clips unfortunately :/ I also use a silicone baking sheet cut to shape to thermally insulate the bed from the heater, but that might be unnecessary: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPZ2YO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage Print Settings Printer Brand: MakerGear Printer: M2 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: .3mm Infill: 80 Notes: printed in PLA, I wouldn't dare attempt ABS, though similar plastics with less thermal shrinkage might do. In order to make it stick I had to use glue stick on painter's tape, but I seem to have worse first layer adhesion than most people. Also, due to the enormous size of the piece, I found that I had to carefully balance the temperature I used on the build platform. 80 degrees worked best for me; anything less and the corners curled up, and significantly more and the corners actually curved down.