Spyderco Mule Scales - Hidden Lanyard Hole and Textures

thingiverse

This is a modified version of my other Spyderco Mule Team scales, with a hidden Lanyard hole and smooth, solid hex and outline hex surface texturing. These scales were designed around an S45VN blade, I'm not sure what the external tolerances are like between Mule Team runs, so some wet sanding or fitment may be required. The scales have cavities for embedded nuts, so use a slicer like PrusaSlicer to find the first layer that covers the cavities and insert a pause in the G-code before that layer. When the print pauses, you can drop the four nuts into the cavities and the next layer should cover them. Hardware Required: 4 each - M4 hex nuts 4 each - M4x12mm button head socket cap screws I believe this is the M4 screw pack I have: https://www.amazon.com/Sutemribor-240Pcs-Stainless-Button-Assortment/dp/B07CYM1N8R/ref=sr_1_32?dchild=1&keywords=M4+button+head+socket+cap+screws&qid=1622517000&s=hi&sr=1-32 I printed my test sets in PLA+, PLA is prone to polymer creep (PETG might be a better choice), but I haven't had scales loosen any so far. Scales in the photos were printed at 0.15mm layer height. This drawing was done in imperial, if the scale set appears tiny in your slicer, your slicer is assuming metric scale and you'll need to scale the print to 2,540% for proper fit. The scales fit ok in the factory Spyderco Boltaron sheath, but pry it open more than the factory G10 scales. Fit is good in the factory leather sheath after being left in to form the leather a bit. A little post processing helps with the textured scales. Run over the surface of the scales VERY lightly and quickly with a torch to melt strings and sharp points. Scuff the textured surface lightly with sandpaper (I used 400 grit) to take any remaining retraction points off then another very light pass with the torch to get rid of the white scuff marks and you're done.