static grass applicator

thingiverse

This is my take on a static grass applicator. It's a handy tool to make great looking tufts and meadows on any model terrain. The applicator is simple to print, easy to assemble and works like a charm. The electronics are simple. It needs a [high-voltage generator (20 kV)](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Details-about-In-12v-out-15000-V-20000-V-adjustable-High-voltage-electrostatic-generator-5W/32695450014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3da24c4deA7HKX), a [switch](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-LOT-Black-Push-Button-Mini-Switch-6A-10A-110V-250V-KCD1-101-2Pin-Snap-in/32691789699.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dOsBZcN), a [12 V power supply](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-Has-Power-Supply-DC-12-V-1A-2A-3A-5A-6A-7A-8A-10A/32844219481.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d1HZ8sy), some wires and connectors. On top of the handle, next to the switch, there's a hole to feed the power supply wire into the handle. Connect the power supply and the switch to the small input wires of the generator. On the bottom of the handle are two holes to feed the generator output wires through.The thick output wires of the generator get connected to the wire mesh (red) and ground (black). If you prefer you could solder the positive output wire of the generator directly to the wire mesh. I opted for a crocodile clip instead, so the lid doesn't get in the way while cleaning. Don't forget to seal the hole which feeds the wire into the cup or you'll end up with static grass in the handle. To assemble the applicator you'll also need: - 5x hex socket head cap screws M5x12 with washers - 4x hex socket flat countersunk head screws M3x8 - Some small wire mesh, I used a [kitchen sieve](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/7-8-10-12-14-16-18-20-22cm-Optional-Kitchen-Stainless-Steel-Flour-Tea-Strainer/32887960111.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.24.768d3278Civsat&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_319_10059_10884_317_10887_10696_100031_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10307_538_537_536_10134,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=c3e20c25-4627-46a6-9e13-4afdac5e6c00-3&algo_pvid=c3e20c25-4627-46a6-9e13-4afdac5e6c00) - Two-part epoxy glue to attach the wire mesh A quick note on the screws: On my printer, the inside diameters of holes usually turn out smaller than designed. So I modelled the holes for the M5 screws to Ø5.0 mm. This then gives me a printed hole with enough grip to firmly hold the screw without splitting the part. This may differ on your printer, so I also included the parasolid files, so you can adjust the diameters to your needs. When I designed it, I wanted it to have few parts, to print without supports and to be able to open the lid quickly. I think I succeeded on the first two points, but the lid requires one full revolution to open. Still fairly comfortable, but if I were to design it again, I would probaly try and improve this...