Steal Your Face

prusaprinters

<p>Grateful Dead - Steal Your Face.<br/> Artful drink coaster or window display designed for 5 color printing with Prusa MMU 2.0.<br/> Default scaling is about 100 mm diameter and 2 mm thick.<br/> Materials are all Snowlabs PetG. The black and white are opaque. The clear, red, and blue parts are translucent.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><h3>Category: Signs &amp; Logos Summary</h3> <p>Grateful Dead - Steal Your Face.<br/> Artful drink coaster or window display designed for 5 color printing with Prusa MMU 2.0.<br/> Default scaling is about 100 mm diameter and 2 mm thick.<br/> Materials are all Snowlabs PetG. The black and white are opaque. The clear, red, and blue parts are translucent.</p> <p>Order of reels in the attached Gcode:<br/> 1 White<br/> 2 Red<br/> 3 Blue<br/> 4 Clear<br/> 5 Black</p> <h3> Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong> Prusa</p> <p><strong>Printer:</strong> i3 MK3 MMU 2</p> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong> No</p> <p><strong>Supports:</strong> No</p> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong> 0.2 mm layers</p> <p><strong>Infill:</strong> 100% rectilinear</p> <p><strong>Filament:</strong> Snolabs PetG 5 colors<br/> <strong>Notes:</strong></p> <p>Designed to feature the Prusa i3 mk3s with MMUS, multi material filament changer.</p> <h3> Post-Printing</h3> <p><strong>Optional top glossy finish</strong></p> <p>After printing, let the part cool on the buildplate.<br/> Then flash melt the top surface with a heat gun on high setting.<br/> Be careful not to damage your buildplate, excessive heat will make it delaminate, so do this quickly and stop as soon as the top surface gets smooth.<br/> Allow the part to fully cool before attempting to remove it from the buildplate.<br/> You don't want to bend it while the material is still soft.</p> <p>It is nearly impossible to melt the top surface without distortion and bubbling once the part has been removed from the buildplate.</p> <h3> How I Designed This</h3> <p>This started with a .png image processed with trace2scad (<a href="http://aggregate.org/MAKE/TRACE2SCAD/">http://aggregate.org/MAKE/TRACE2SCAD/</a>) to get an openscad file.<br/> The parts of the file were then segmented into the black, white, red, and blue parts.<br/> The clear base and top were added in openscad along with the clear fill for the eyes.</p> <p>If I were to do this again, I would segment the colors in the .png image, and then use trace2scad on each .png color. Dividing the colors up in the .scad file was too much work. Whereas an image processor like Gimp could do it automatically on the original .png image.</p>