Straddle Saddle Sybian Style Vibrator Introductory Price $50.00

cults3d

WARNING: THIS IS A MECHANICAL DESIGN THAT COMES INTO CONTACT WITH THE HUMAN BODY…. BUILD THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! (FURTHER WARNING DETAILS AT THE BOTTOM) This project all came about when I was looking up the most expensive 3D models in the “Naughties” category. That is where I discovered Boris’ redesigned version of the “Sybian®”. I was definitely interested in having a $1,400 sex toy for about $150. A youtuber recently told me one of his viewers’ wife didn’t approve of him purchasing a 3D printer. I wondered if he could 3D print a $1,400 female toy for just $100-$150 if she would be more inclined to approve of the purchase. Keep in mind the Sybian® is designed with both a clitoral and vaginal stimulation. My device and others only stimulate clitorally. But that hasn’t stopped women from having the best orgasms of their lives using only the clitoral stimulation. You can watch multiple examples of Howard Stern using it(clitoral only) on his celebrity guests on Youtube.com After I purchased Boris’ design I was disappointed to discover (after paying almost $80) the heart of the machine(the cam) would have to be custom ordered and made my a machinist in a machine shop on a lathe. The pulley would have to be custom machined and threaded as well. But I appreciate Boris’ design as an inspiration and did not request a refund. Instead I started to wonder if there was a way to 3D print a work around to the “cam problem.” I went ahead and printed all the other 3D printable parts including the molds. Then I went to work on designing a work around for an elliptical cam that could be 3D printable. After many, many hours the more I designed the work around the more I found ways to improve the entire design. One by one…. improvement by improvement… I ended up not using any of the original design, as I found ways to make every part fit my personal preferences. What I came up with I’m pretty impressed with… and especially my lady friend really likes it a lot. Changes I made: 1. I designed the internal frame to mount to the inside ceiling of the housing instead of mounting to the base. This gave me a lot more freedom to mount the internal mechanism inside any housing I chose. This “ceiling design” allowed me to not have to change the height of the design base every time I wanted to use a different housing with a different height from the floor to ceiling. The internal mechanism just bolts to the roof. You can simply change the length of the drive belt so it reaches the motor mounted on the floor. Depending on the housing dimensions you could even mount the motor to the top of the housing as well. NOTE: I do not know what motor you will choose to use… so yo will have to come up with a motor mounting solution on your own! My design was intentionally designed so it could fit inside a metal (reinforced) mailbox you can buy at the big box stores. 2. When I decided to redesign the cam I also wanted the pulleys 3D printable. I also chose to go with a T10 tooth gear profile to be 100% sure the belt I used would never slip. T10 belts are incredibly strong and durable, but they are a little stiff and want to hold their round shape, so there is some rolling resistance. I may in the future change the tooth profile to a timing belt that is more flexible… but again using a T10 profile left no doubt about the belt securely driving the cam. One nice thing is you can order T10 pulleys right off amazon if you prefer a different pulley/gear size. In the future I may cut the width of the belt in half since they are so strong. 3. The cam and pulley are one symmetrical 3D printed piece and is center mounted, so a more slender housing can be used. 4. I wanted to be 100% sure the materials used in contact with the human body were well tested. I noticed that the Sybian®… the Motor Bunny… the Multiple Orgasm Machine(aka MOM) all used the same latex attachment cover, so I designed my attachment base to work with Sybian® and all the other 3rd party latex and silicone covers. The advantage is two fold, first you can purchase ready made 3rd party silicone covers. This means they are safe and you have a wide choice of designs to choose from. I found other interesting attachments on Etsy as well. 5. The vibrating base is designed in such a way as to connect to the internal mechanism/platform using just two risers with bolts running down the center. I did this so you can 3D model and attach your own vibrating shapes. You can also change the distance from the internal mechanism/platform and the upper external vibrating base, by simply changing the hight of the risers/pillars and the length of the threaded bolts. So if you have a thick walled housing you can easily design a solution. The truth is if you know how to (in 3D slicer software) sink the risers below the virtual surface you can change the height of the riser easily that way. This simplified design makes it so you can 3D model your own vibrating bases and easily connect them to the internal mechanism… in case you have some designs you’d like to try. I have included the basic Sybian® style base and risers, plus an angled/lifted clitoral enhancement that you can use regular 3rd party Sybian® covers (no need to purchase an additional clitoral attachment). 6. The Sybian® and Boris’s design use springs to support the back end of the orbiting internal platform. I’ve also seen someone online use a piece of flexible reenforced water hose to support the platform. Because my design mounts to the ceiling I decided “simple” was better and just provided holes in the internal platform, so you can attach to the platform to the top of the housing. This allows it so you can change the lift of the platform and the amount of flex it has easily, by making the cord longer or shorter and change the flex by changing out the thickness of the bungie cord. 8. I have designed several different motor drive pulley’s so you can use different motors with different motor shafts. If you have a different size motor shaft you should be able to drill it out the center to the size you need. The different size pulleys also allows you to change the ratio between the drive pulley on the motor and the one on the and the main internal mechanism. Again If the pulleys I designed don’t fit your needs you can order different ones off of Amazon. 9. I opted for a design that only uses bungie cords to levitate the back end of the vibrating platform. This way you can adjust the “spring” in both the up and down directions of the platform by simply changing the tension of the bungie cords holding up the rear end of the internal platform. Just drill some holes in the top and bottom of your housing and thread the bungie cord through and tie one end to the platform and the other to the housing. Building “The Machine” Here are some suggestion on the design… but again… this is still a prototype… design it at your own risk! I designed this to be printed and assembled in the simplest and most affordable way possible. I designed it specifically so you can order all the parts on Amazon. Some of the pieces I bought at local stores. I bought my mailboxes at Lowes… with my design I was able to successfully build “The Machine” in three different housings(mailboxes). Make sure the mailbox will hold the weight you put on it. Plus you don’t have to use a mailbox, you can design your own housing. I’ve also seen “curved plywood” for sale online. For cushioning the outside of the mailbox I used one of those foam floor mats that help people who are standing on their feet all day (not the diamond plate design, but it is in the same section). Choose whatever works for you. To cut out the holes in the top and back of the mailbox I used a Dremel for one design and I used a hole saw for another design. BOM 2- 608 skate board bearings 1- T10 timing belt 16mm wide. I can’t tell you the length as I don’t know the size of the housing you will be using. Just purchase this last after everything is built. Then use a string to measure the size of belt you will need to connect the cam gear to the motor gear. The nice thing is T10 belts are 10mm per tooth so if you need a 46 tooth belt it will measure 460mm… or vice versa. 2- 20x27x4 Metal Shielded Sealed Ball Bearings 6704-ZZ 1- 8mm(or US equivalent) threaded rod to go through the 608 skate board bearings 10-8mm(or US equivalent) Nylon lock nuts 4-8mm washers 3- bungie cords 1- Housing (your choice) 1- Motor (your choice) + nuts and bolts and proper mounting parts 1- Sound insulating material to make it quieter. MAKE SURE YOUR MOTOR DOESN’T OVERHEAT DURING USE! There might be a few of pieces I can’t remember Important build note: when you drill holes to mount the internal mechanism to the housing... you must bend the holes in the top of the housing so they are perfectly perpendicular to the bottom of the housing… otherwise the bolts running through the housing won’t point straight down, instead they will angle inward and will twist the shaft and bearings and will cause a lot of resistance and the bearings may make a squeaking sound. If you get the holes and bolts to point straight down the mechanism will rotate perfectly. Tools you will need: Safety Glasses and gloves Various drill bits Hole saw or Dremel with cutoff disks Utility knife to cut holes in the housing cover(mat) and to cut sound insulation for the mailboxes internal walls WARNING: I am not a professional engineer. I am not a doctor. I am not a scientist. I am not an electrician. If you choose to build this design you do so at your own risk!!! It is impossible for me to think of all the potential risks that are possible, but here are some things to consider… This is a mechanical device. It could break. Please consider using external materials that are more likely to bend or tear instead of something that could break into sharp pieces and or projectiles. Certain materials don’t play nice with others… ie. Silicone and water based toys and lubricants. I have no idea what 3d printing filaments work well with silicone… latex and other materials, do your own homework. 3. I am not an electrician. Due to the nature of the device, the machine and the user could come into contact with lubricants and bodily fluids, to avoid electric shock and personal danger, is extremely important that you ground and insulate all electrical components and the device’s housing. Also consider using fuses and an emergency stop button. People’s weight can vary greatly and depending our the housing and materials you choose, they may fail if not designed for the weight of the person using the device. With my first prototype I tried using an angle grinder as a motor for the device. The RPM of the grinder is about four times too fast in my opinion. Using a device this fast is almost guaranteed to cause the device to self destruct quickly in an unsafe manner. Please consider a drive motor that is much much slower. Please choose a motor that has a variable speed controller and on that will never start at full speed. Depending on your design the device may generate a lot of heat. It is important that you test and ensure your design does not get dangerously hot. There are many more risks I cannot think of so build and use this device at your own risk! Depending on the motor, gear ratios and speeds you run the drive motor at, this design could be run at a dangerous speed that the human body isn’t designed to handle. I am also not responsible if you turn into a magician and this device saws your wife in half. I am not responsible if your wife leaves you and takes this machine with her In all seriousness don’t take yours and other people’s safety lightly! Side note: After all this design work I decided to release it to the public because I didn’t want all this work to be wasted on just one person. One thing I’m looking to get out of releasing this model (besides recuperation some of the money I’ve spent) is to see what combinations of component assemblies other people come up with. I want to see what motors and speed controllers people incorporate that work best. I originally wanted to design a unit that is powered by and electric skateboard motor. This would allow the vibrator to be portable… no need for a power outlet… and could be controlled with a wireless remote controller. PLEASE SHARE YOUR SOLUTIONS FOR MAKING THE DEVICE THE BEST IT CAN BE!