Stylized Skull Mask

thingiverse

Whimsical skull mask, inspired by 'Papyrus' from the video game Undertale. Printable by mere mortals, in less than a day! Made so you can both scale and thermoform the completed print for a perfect fit. I also broke down the model into 4 parts so you can print on smaller beds, (optionally) make the mouth move, and position the eyebrows to your liking. Print Settings Printer: Mankati Fullscale XT Plus Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: .2 Infill: 30% Notes: As is, the mask is sized to fit my 10 year old daughter; you may need to (consistently) re-scale all parts in your slicer depending on your needs. You will need to print two eyebrows; use the 'mirror' function in your slicer to create both the left and right brows. Use PLA so that you can thermoform your finished parts (more on that below) I found this works best if you print with 3 perimeters, especially for the Jaw where you will need the extra strength. Use the default part orientation in the STL files; I spent some time experimenting with different rotations and layouts, and think I found where the models will print the best with the least amount of support material. Don't use rafts - especially on the head and face pieces - since you will gluing them together using the bed-facing surfaces of both parts (both sides should be nice and flat, and join together with little or no seam). Use a brim if you are having bed adhesion issues. Post-Printing Making the printed parts into a Mask You will need: Painters tape Super Glue Hot glue gun Thick Rubber gloves (to wear when thermoforming) Optionally: Velcro Straps (to hold it the mask on your head) Black '2nd Skin' Mask (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF51RS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to wear under the Papyrus mask. Using the Super Glue, glue the 'head' to the 'face' by joining the smooth edges of both parts that were touching the printer bed. I used painters tape to temporarily hold the pieces in alignment while I glued the parts together. (Optionally) Thermoform the head and jaw pieces. This article will give you an idea of what's involved: http://www.instructables.com/id/Thermoforming-3D-Printed-PLA-for-Use-in-Prostethic/ . I prefer using the hot (near boiling) water approach, where you immerse the part for a few seconds, then slowly mold the pieces into the shape you need. You can do this to the same part/part area over and over till you get it just right. WEAR THICK KITCHEN RUBBER GLOVES TO PROTECT YOUR HANDS!!!!! Attach the 'jaw' to the 'face' flanges. You can either hot glue the jaw to the face, or attach it loosely (so it still moves) by drilling holes through both parts and attaching with string. If you want the mouth to move when you talk, you can hot glue a piece of foam rubber on the inside of the jaw (under the chin) so it rests against your own chin when your wearing the mask. Another option (that is pictured above) is to use self adhesive velcro squares to attach the jaw to the head... This makes the jaw pose-able at different angles, changing the expression on the mask. Hot glue the velcro straps on either side of the mask so the ends join/stick around the back of your head (see picture). Thermoform the eyebrows so they hug the face in the position you desire. Super Glue them into place. If you decide you want to paint your mask, I highly recommend that you hit it with a couple of layers of automotive primer first and lightly sand. Not only will this get rid of the layer lines on your print, but it will also allow your paint to take much better and smoother than on a naked print. Although it makes it a bit more difficult to see, wearing a Black '2nd Skin' Mask under your printed mask makes for a really neat hollow effect, especially when your indoors, and not in bright light (my daughter is wearing one in the picture above).