Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer Enclosure, 4 Parts

thingiverse

I wanted to print this great design by HexiBase on my Ender 3 but the two halves were too big to fit on the build plate so I split each one into two halves. The two halves are joined together via a tongue and groove arrangement so alignment will be easy and have an air tight joint. There are two versions of the halves with the driver opening; HB3S_10A and HB3S_20A have mounting holes large enough to accept M3x4x4 threaded brass inserts and HB3S_11A and HB3S_21A have holes that are smaller for regular M3 self-tapping screws. Both versions also include ten holes for fastening the two sections (upper and lower?) together with M3 x 18 machine or self-tapping screws. Note: the photos are of the first remix where the two halves are of equal width but I have since changed it so that they are unequal so that the seam line is off set from each other for better strength and a better seal. The .STL files reflect this change. Instead of JB Weld (a very strong glue), I used either clear Gorilla glue or thick CA with an accelerator. Both work very well but the CA only gives you 30 seconds or so of working time before it sets. I haven't had time to fully glue one together yet (I'm making two) but I did listen to this before all the sections were permanently glued together just to get an idea of how this will sound. I used a TPA3116 based class D amplifier with an adjustable subwoofer roll-off. Even though the enclosure was far from being air tight (other than the port, of course) it sounded great. It's never going to be as good as a sub with a larger driver in tonal quality or volume level but given it's 3" (75mm) size, it's amazing. I'll be pairing up each enclosure with a Tang Band W3-2141 full-range driver for a compact speaker system that will blow my friends away. NOTE (10/15/2019): Thank you to those who downloaded my remix, but I found a mistake in parts HB3S_10A, HB3S_10B, and HB3S_11B. The holes for the screws that secure the two halves together were too big and I've corrected the error. I've removed the old .STL files and reposted the revised parts. They are designated HBS_10A, HBS_10B, and HBS_11B. Please redownload these undated files. Sorry for the trouble. UPDATE (10/19/2019): Fair warning - this thing wants to push A LOT of air so you want to make sure all joints are aligned and sealed well. When gluing the two halves together, lay some wax paper or plastic wrap on a flat surface, place the two halves flat on the surface with glue already applied then push the two halves together. Lightly tap the tops of both halves with a plastic mallet or block of wood to make sure both halves are flat against the surface. Use clamps to hold them together until the glue dries. When gluing the top and bottom halves together, make sure you use a generous amount of glue, even on the wave guide walls because you don't want any air leaks in any of these either. Even though these walls are on the inside of the enclosure, if there are any air leaks you'll hear it coming out of the rear port. I didn't use enough glue on my first enclosure so now whenever there is a lot of low bass in the music I can hear chuffing and hissing coming out the port. It's driving me crazy enough that I'll probably make another enclosure. Be sure to use some kind of gasket or liquid sealant such as silicone when installing the speaker driver. Using just screws is NOT enough to seal the driver from air leaks. I can't emphasize enough how important it is to get a good seal on all joints with this thing. With the amount of air that little driver is moving you WILL hear any leaks. This little monstrousity is a BEAST! HexiBase hit it out of the park with this one.