Taurus Y axis GT2-40T for Prusa MK3 and MK3s

Taurus Y axis GT2-40T for Prusa MK3 and MK3s

thingiverse

## Why this remix The printed idler doesn't seens good to me, i run 0.6mm nozzle, the tiny part looks fragil and teeth doesn't 100% align. When insert bearing it broke, so i had to scale it by 1%. This make my idler twist when moving bed, and that's not good i think. So this remake uses GT2 40T Idler hardware instead, this gives taurus beefy and robust idlers and looks even more cool IMO. ## Info This use same alignment, positions, screws, etc. Only cut some area inside idlers to fit new idler. Centers are the same and idler diameter too. All other parts must get from original thing. Print with same instructions. Belt clamp remixed to prevent endstop hit the 40T and lose about 3mm Y, 2 teeth removed from both sides, i guess it would survive. ## Hardware * 2 x GT2 40T B8 W6: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-2GT-40T-with-teeth-or-no-theeth-Idler-Timing-Pulley-3mm-4mm-5mm-6mm-Bore/32894094735.html * 2 x 688zz bearing: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-688ZZ-688-ZZ-8x16x5mm-Metal-Double-Steel-Shielded-Ball-Bearing-Mini-Radial-Deep-Groove-Ball/32936747357.html ## Instructions 0. Sand Axle's top to be flat if you printer left bumps. 1. Push the 688zz bearing into free slot of 40T with a hammer. Be gentle! 2. Insert 688 and 698 into respective bearings, push against table, no hammer need but won't hurt if used. 3. Insert the 40T into idler, center it with a screw, rotate and check for free movement. 4. Sand endstop hit points if not flat or have bumps 5. If all ok, remove 40T from idler and follow original instructions. ## Results To me it end in better smooth movement and fixed the twist. Rock Solid!

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