THE BEAST - FULLY 3D PRINTED FRAME AND RAILS 3D PRINTER

thingiverse

Some assembly required... This project is not for the faint of heart. That being said.. This is a very large project that will take a lot of time to build. Updates have been moved to the bottom.. Scroll down.. way down.. to see the updates. I had some spare parts laying around, including a spare Anycubic Chiron heated bed (400x400), Steppers, main board, display, extruder, etc.. I was thinking I wanted to see if I could turn those spare parts into another printer. Of course I can… however, I wanted to see if it could be done without having to purchase extrusions, AND be fully printable on a smaller 200x200 printer. This was the challenge here. Well, it does work, and in hindsight, extrusions might be quicker and easier. What I designed is a large format printer, that can be printed on a small printer. (Yes, this will take a few spools of filament) I named it “The Beast” because,, well,, it’s huge. The final footprint of this printer is almost a full meter wide, and over a meter deep, not counting the power supply that sits next to it, that I still need to design an enclosure for. <b>Design specs</b> - 400x400x300 print area, and you can go taller if you want to customize. - Anycubic Ultrabase comes with the heated bed. - Main board I used is Trigorilla 1.1 based on RAMPS 1.4. - TMC2208 drivers because they are MUCH quieter. - I used Marlin 1.1.9 for the Firmware - Display is a RepRap 12864 display with custom boot logo. - Auto leveling with a BLTouch from Antlabs - 24V 720W power supply and a 24V-12V 30A converter. - Mosfet for the heated bed. (24V and 500W for bed) - Bed runs on 24V, everything else is standard 12V - Built-in belt tensioners for both X and Y belts - Adjustable end stops. - Everything is 3D printable, and snaps together in most places. No glue needed. - Fully printable on a 200x200 printer. - Coming soon - Filament runout sensor - The Hotend bracket is customisable and mounts to carriage with a dovetail joint. Step file included. - Working on a Cyclops option. - AND... It glows in the dark. (Curtain rod filament holder not included!!) <b>Printing</b> - All parts are in the correct orientation that they should be printed. There were a couple files for the frame that needed a small support, and I built that into the STL file. Snap off the tiny support and it should be good to go. - All parts are designed with a 0.15mm clearance. Unless it’s a part that needs to slide, such as belt tensioners, those have a 0.25mm clearance. - <b>DO NOT SCALE</b> if something is too tight. - Instead, <u>adjust your horizontal expansion in shell settings</u>. If you don’t know what this setting is, do a web search and read up on it. It basically compensates for your filament going on wider or not wide enough, and is way better than scaling if things aren’t fitting. - <b>Try the Test print first</b>. This will help you gauge if your printer and slicer is tuned enough to print this. - Everything is a tight fit.. This is very much on purpose because things need to be tight for this to work right. Can’t have things wiggling around because of loose fits. - Use the same filament for X, Y and Z axis parts. I switched filaments on part of mine, and the filament shrunk different amounts and made for some extra sanding to make them fit.. I recommend you stick with the same filament throughout if possible. - If you have warping issues or calibration issues, fix that before trying to build this. It will save you a lot of time. - Test printing, I’ve included a couple test prints in this. Print these first to make sure your printer is dialed in enough for things to fit correctly. If not, make adjustments to your Horizontal expansion settings. (If too tight, put a negative number, if too loose, put in a positive number) <b>X Axis and carriage.</b> - It’s nearly a meter wide. - The “X” pieces help stabilize it from bowing up or down. - There are pins inside the top and bottom of the X axis as well. - The front and back plates work together to help keep it centered. - You can glue it together if you wish, but not needed if the fits are tight. - If you glue it, make sure your end stop is in place before gluing the final piece. - Once assembled, sand the rails to make them smooth at the seams. - There is a belt tensioner in the Extruder carriage. - Can adjust the wheels using a 6mm eccentric spacer and adjusted with a 10mm wrench. Hardware needed for X Axis - M3x8mm - Qty 4 - Stepper motor mount - M3x30mm w/nut - Qty 1 - Pulley mount - M3x20mm w/nut - X-Axis End stop plate. This screw holds it in place. - M5x55mm w/nut - Qty 4 - Wheel mounts on outside of X-Axis - M5x50mm w/nut - Qty 2 - Wheel mounts on inside of X-Axis - 24mm pulley wheel - Qty 6 - Wheels to mount the X-Axis - 6mm Eccentric spacer - Qty 6 - For wheel adjustment. - Nema 17 Stepper motor - Qty 1 - I went with a 40mm motor here. - 1 meter Stepper motor cable. - 2+ meters of GT2 6mm belt. - 16 tooth GT2 pulley with 5mm bore for stepper motor side. - 16 tooth GT2 pulley with 3mm bore bearings on pulley side. Carriage parts - M3x50mm w/nut - Qty 1 - X-Axis belt tensioner - M3x20mm w/nut - Qty 2 - Turbo fan mount - M3x6mm w/nut - Qty 2 - BLTouch mount - M5x40mm w/nut - Qty 3 - For holding the wheels on.. - M2x10mm w/nut - Qty 2 - End stop switch - May vary depending on what switch you use. - 24mm pulley wheel - Qty 3 - Wheels to mount the carriage - End stop switch - Qty 1 - Extruder - I went with a Titan, but likely fine with others. - M3 Screws for Extruder to stepper will vary depending on what extruder you use. - Nema 17 Stepper - I went with a slim one to cut back on weight. - 2 Meter Stepper motor cable. - Turbo fan for parts cooling - Hotend - BLTrouch is optional, but recommended. With 2M cable <b>Y Axis and carriage. </b> - The Y carriage needs to be a tight fit. This is what holds up the bed and rides on the rails. - I put holes in the Y rails for wires to get through as needed. - The front, rear, and center parts can be screwed down to a board to make it more sturdy. - Can try a 6mm GT2 belt, but I made this large enough to accomodate a 10mm belt if needed. (Parts listed below are based on 10mm belt) - Adjust the belt tension with the 2 screws on the front. - Can adjust the wheels using a 6mm eccentric spacer and adjusted with a 10mm wrench. - Sand the rails to make them smooth at the seams Parts needed for Y axis - M3x50mm w/nut - Qty 2 - Belt tensioner. - M3x10mm - Qty 4 - Stepper motor mount - M3x20mm w/nut - Qty 1 - Limit switch mount - M5x45mm w/nut - Qty 1 - Belt tensioner. - M5x40mm w/nut - Qty 8 - Y carriage wheel screws - 6mm Eccentric spacer - Qty 4 - Wheel adjustment - 24mm pulley wheel - Qty 8 - Wheels to mount the carriage - 25mmx10mm O.D x5mm I.D. Spring - Qty 4 - Heat bed springs - 5mm Wing nut - Qty 4 - Heat bed nuts - Anycubic Chiron heated bed 400x400 - Comes with print surface. - 10mm wide GT2 20 tooth - 5mm bore pulley for Stepper motor - 10mm wide GT2 20 tooth - 5mm bore pulley for tensioner. - Nema 17 Stepper motor - I went with a 60mm here, but this maxes out my drivers if I send all the current it can handle. - 2.5+ meters of GT2 10mm belt - 36” x 36” (Yes, barbarian units) flat MDF board to mount this to. - Wood screws - Qty 9 - To hold it down <b>Z Axis - Main frame</b> - The main frame parts have a fit that helps make it more rigid and no glue is needed. - The locking pin helps keep the frame parts seated. - The Z rails also overlap the main frame seams to make it even more rigid. - The stabilizer is built into the design and will help keep it square. - Sand the rails when assembled to make it roll smoothly at the seams. I- used a T8 4-Start lead screw that’s commonly available. Parts needed - M3x10mm - Qty 8 - Holds feet to frame - M3x10mm - Qty 1 - Optional end stop mount if BL touch isn’t used. - M3x8mm - Qty 8 - Screws for stepper motor mount - M3x8mm - Qty 4 - Screws for lead screw nut - Nema 17 Steppers - Qty 2 - Dual Z axis motors - T8 500mm Lead screw - Qty 2 - For the Z axis. - Anti-Backlash T8 lead screw nut - Qty 2 - Helps with Z accuracy. - 5mm to 8mm coupler - Qty 2 - The connection from stepper to lead screw <b>Total parts needed</b> - M2x10mm w/nut - Qty 2 - May vary depending on what limit switch you use. - M3x6mm w/nut - Qty 2 - M3x8mm - Qty 16 - M3x10mm - Qty 13 - M3x20mm - Qty 4 - M3x30mm - Qty 1 - M3x50mm Qty 3 - M3 Nuts - Qty 23 - M5x40mm - Qty 11 - M5x45mm - Qty 1 - M5x50mm - Qty 2 - M5x55mm - Qty 4 - M6 Nuts - Qty 16 - 24mm pulley wheel - Qty 17 - 6mm Eccentric spacer - Qty 11 - End Stop switch - Qty 2 (Or 3 if you choose no BLtouch) - BLTouch - Qty 1 - With 2M cable - 2+ meters of GT2 6mm belt. - 6mm wide 16 tooth GT2 pulley with 5mm bore - 6mm wide 16 tooth GT2 pulley with 3mm bore bearings - 10mm wide GT2 20 tooth - 5mm bore pulley for Stepper motor - 10mm wide GT2 20 tooth - 5mm bore pulley for tensioner. - 2.5+ meters of GT2 10mm belt - Nema 17 Stepper motor - Qty 5 (May vary in size) - 1 meter Stepper motor cable. - Qty 3 - 2 meter Stepper motor cable. - Qty 2 - Anycubic 400x400 Heat bed for Chiron (Comes with surface) 24V @ 500W - 25mmx10mm O.D x5mm I.D. Spring - Qty 4 - Heat bed springs - 5mm Wing nut - Qty 4 - Heat bed nuts - Extruder - I went with a Titan, but likely fine with others. - M3 Screws for Extruder to stepper will vary depending on what extruder you use. - 12V Turbo fan for parts cooling - 12V Hotend - T8 500mm Lead screw - Qty 2 - For the Z axis. - Anti-Backlash T8 lead screw nut - Qty 2 - Helps with Z accuracy. - 5mm to 8mm coupler - Qty 2 - The connection from stepper to lead screw - 36” x 36” (Yes, barbarian units) flat MDF board to mount this to. - Wood screws - Qty 9 - To hold it down - 720W 24V Power supply minimal. Prefer 1000W 24V if you can get one. - Power cord for supply - Power switch for 120V to supply - 24V to 12V 30A converter, or separate 12V power supply - 30A Mosfet for switching current to heat bed - Main board - I went with Trigorilla since I had one already - Stepper drivers - I went with TMC2208 - QTY 4 is needed, but get 5. - Fan for Stepper drivers - Various wires and Dupont or JST connectors. - Wire wrap for bundles and keeping things tidy. - 3-4 Spools of Filament (Yup, it’s a lot of printing to make something this size) <b>What to print</b> Y Carriage - Bed Hub.stl - Qty 1 - Bed Arm.stl - Qty 4 (They are all the same, just inserted upside down in 2 spots) - M5 6mm Spacers - Qty 12 - M5 1 mm spacers - Qty 8 (Used M5 between nut and wheel) Y Axis - Y Rail Segment.stl - Qty 8 - Y Rail pin.stl - Qty 14 - Y Front Center.stl - Qty 1 - Y Front Right.stl - Qty 1 - Y Front Left.stl - Qty 1 - Y Rear Center.stl - Qty 1 - Y Rear Right.stl - Qty 1 - Y Rear Left.stl - Qty 1 - Y Rail Belt tensioner.stl - Qty 2 - Y Rail tie mid.stl - Qty 3 - Y Rail tie square.stl - Qty 6 - Y Rail to leg pin.stl - Qty 2 - Y Rail to leg tie left.stl - Qty 1 - Y Rail to leg tie right.stl - Qty 1 - Y Axis switch mount.stl - Qty 1 X Axis - X Axis 100 Center.stl - Qty 1 - X Axis 180 Center.stl - Qty 2 - X Axis left front.stl - Qty 1 - X Axis left rear.stl - Qty 1 - X Axis right front.stl - Qty 1 - X Axis right rear.stl - Qty 1 - X Axis pin short.stl - Qty 4 (links the 100mm center piece) - X Axis pin long.stl - Qty 4 - X Axis pulley bracket.stl - Qty 1 - X Axis X.stl - Qty 4 - X Axis switch mount - Qty 1 - Used as something for the limit switch to hit or mount for switch. - M5 6mm spacers - Qty 16 - M3 1mm spacers - Qty 5 (for X axis pulley) Main frame / Z Axis - Fram pin.stl - Qty 10 - Lead screw top pin.stl - Qty 4 - Lead screw top.stl - Qty 2 - Main left inside leg.stl - Qty 1 - Main left outside leg.stl - Qty 1 - Main right inside leg.stl - Qty 1 - Main right outside leg.stl - Qty 1 - Main lower left.stl - Qty 1 - Main lower right.stl - Qty 1 - Main mid upright.stl - Qty 4 - Has a support tab that you snap off. - Main top center.stl - Qty 1 - Main top inter.stl - Qty 2 - Main top left.stl - Qty 1 - Main top right.stl - Qty 1 - Z rail 35.stl - Qty 2 - Inside top of Z axis - Z rail 112.stl - Qty 2 - Outside top of Z axis - Z rail Long.stl - Qty 12 - Z Axis rails slide onto frame - Optional - Optical Z mount.stl - Qty 1 or 2 depending on what you are doing. - Optional - Optical Z mount tab.stl - Qty 1 or 2 depending on what you are doing. Stabilizer - Pin to Y front.stl - Qty 2 - Stabilizer lower.stl - Qty 2 - Stabilizer middle.stl - Qty 4 - Stabilizer upper.stl - Qty 2 - Stabilizer pin.stl - Qty 12 Extruder mount - Extruder bracket.stl - Qty 1 - Extruder fan bracket.stl - Qty 1 - Extruder mounting plate.stl - Qty 1 - X tensioner 1.stl - Qty 1 - X tensioner 2.stl - Qty 1 - BL Touch mount.stl - Qty 1 - Optional if using BL Touch - X Limit switch mount with BL Touch.stl - Qty 1 - Optional if using BL Touch - X Limit switch mount without BL Touch.stl - Qty 1 - Optional is not using BL Touch <b> Update 7/18/20</b> - Moved the updates down here.. Also took off the flag for this being a work in progress since it's 99% done and I'm only working on a box for the power supply and control board, which is going to differ from make to make as people use different model displays, power supplies, and main boards. Meaning, unless you use the exact same parts I used, the power supply box may not work for you and you would be designing your own anyway.. if you need one.. Works fine without that box as well. <b>Update 7/5/20</b> - Second attempt at Cyclops is working!!! I've included a few new files with this update. - Frame stiffener - This clips on the top of the frame to make it a little stiffer. - Top motor mount for Bowden setup - Also clips on top and extruder mounts to it. - Cyclops BLTouch mount - Slightly shorter than the direct extrusion one, but same design concept. - Cyclops Mount with 3 holes - Cyclops mount with 4 holes (This is the one that worked for me) - Turbo fan for Cyclops - 3 Pictures (Very first test print with Cyclops, and a couple pictures of the setup) I have some tuning to do, but this build seems stable and the printer is working with no excessive heat on the plastic parts. I have a little noise in the walls I need to figure out and some extrusion tuning since the Cyclops nozzle I have does the mixing in the nozzle. This design can also easily be adapted to support Chimera instead of Cyclops. <b>Update 5/11/20</b> - I have a new extruder mount designed for those that want a bowden setup, and I also have an alternate hot end mount designed for a Cyclops 2 in - 1 out mixing nozzle. As soon as I get it printed and tested, I'll post those mods. Basic design is both extruders on top edge, and a couple PTFE tubes coming down to the hot end.. Will release this as soon as i verify it works. <b>Update 4/25/20</b> - Added some pictures. I hung a black cloth around it to make it show the glow better in pictures. (Yes, it glows in the dark.. because.. why not?) <b>Update 4/24/20</b> - Added some exploded views to make it easier to see how it's assembled. Special thanks MD3DD for the mock BLtouch. Saved me some time on drawing one. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1993061 Mihatomi for the Titan extruder Step file. Also saved me some time in not having to draw that. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1727220