The Doot Changer (Formerly known as Hypercube Evolution-S) (Alpha)

thingiverse

Get updated files and better info on the GitHub page: https://github.com/AmyTheCute/The-Doot-Changer **IMPORTANT! I GOT THE DOOT CHANGER WORKING WOOO* **Update 1: 1000+ tool changes without any signs of problems. the first tool which got printed poorly in pla adjusted itself to be parallel after the first 200-100 but stopped wearing down after it got to shape. the second tool is exactly the same. thinking of printing the pins from acetal but i'm worried it'd make the tools less stable since there's less friction, also I could put some slight oil on the pins but that'd also be scary. so far it works great tho. i guess i'll see if it causes problems and THEN find a solution. also I have a few other ideas for a better tool changer that can also do dril etc for accurate holes or pick heavy tools **Update: Carriage.rar with tool changer** you can use this carriage with and without the optional tool changer plates. you need 8 7*3(or custom) magnets and an additional 4 for each tool. print the plates slowly with 0.1mm layer height for the best results. also you need 5mm dowel pins. you can modify the fusion files if you like :) included them seperately i used brass inserts (4mm m3) sorry! i was to excited to care. but as long as you use the special kind of brass inserts I did you'll be more than fine! **DON'T** use those simple injection molding ones TRUST ME also you need 5mm dowel pins. There's a video in the process of being edited and will be published soon! (my youtube channel is TheWobblyEmily) this is still in** SUPER BETA** [Example of the good inserts.](https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Heat-Set-Inserts-connecting-injection/dp/B07BH5X252/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=3d+printing+inserts&qid=1578183873&sr=8-8) these aren't m3 i just put these here to give you an idea! also this design relies on sensorless homing. if you want endstops you have to glue/drill/screw/tape a mehcanical switch to the side of your Y carriages :P sorry! but the Y axis won't be bothered **Origina Info:** This is a collection of mods and custom designed based of scott3d's Hypercube Evolution. I'm slightly unsatisfied by the design but I already invested in it so this will be "Upgrades" for the design to make it work good enough Overall this is designed to make the Hypercube evolution build experience more friendly and easy and better. ~~Non of these parts will use brass inserts or anything special.~~ (SORRY!) my Main problems with scott's design is the layer alignment issues and flexiblity of the 3d printer parts which can also be seen in his videos on a print and inconvenience in some parts. the parts are simply not ideal for 3d printed plastic. the parts are more suited to metal to be honest. **5mm Bore Idlers with dowel pins:** Scott's designs uses washers that add friction to the idlers and generally work bad (no offence to scott or tech2c) and the design leaves a lot to be desired. This design uses a 5MM dowel pin. the pin can be held in just fine with friction but it has slots for 2 m3 screws with a washer on the top part to hold it in. also I had really bad luck finding quality 3mm idlers what you need compared to the original: 4x 5mm bore 20 tooth idlers (toothed) 2x 30mm x5mm dowel pins (or shaft or anything really. any material works as long as you can sand it) the dowel pin will likely not fit into the idlers at first. the fix is easy. get a drill and something to sand it. use the drill to spin the dowel pin and just sand the surface until it goes in with friction (don't want it lose) I've included the fusion 360 files in case your idlers are different. the design is made for 8.5mm total (8.4 edges) idlers. the flexibility of the arms allows for some tolerance. and if your dowel pin isn't very lose they themselves lock it in place. This design is also easy to slide out for maintenance etc. **[TypQxQ Y carriages:](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3501612)** I felt bad just including the files in my own page so Instead I'll leave a link. these allow for far less play in the x rods and are sturdier. They'll need a special endstop flag **[Stepper Corner Bracket](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2543433/):** Huge thanks to NedaLive for making these. these greatly improve the stability of the xy motors and make sure they're not titled. it's very easy for the normal belt tension to flex the stock holder without these. helps the alignment of the belts greatly. I'll designt hem to be more durable and less flexible int he future by also attaching them to the rear top extrusion *no need for any supports* **Motor Mounts:** Far less flex and reduced ringing compared to the original design and it's far easier to install **[No Nut remixed parts:](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814140)** The parts that aren't in this page can be downloaded from this one. it's the same as the original just without those annoying 5x5 brass nuts I could never find! ** TPU Feet: ** These aim to reduce noise and vibrations leading to less ghosting. print with at least 25-35% infill otherwise it adds even more ghosting. for 95a filaments i recommend 30%. it shouldn't be soft but rather only absorb shocks. **~~Aligning tool:~~** ~~Helps align the threaded rod and the smooth rods. slide it up and down to ensure it doesn't stop or stick anywhere. made for a 300x300x300 hypercube build with 12mm rods for the z and 8mm threaded rods~~ **Update: ** after talking to someone who is very knowledgeable I realized that the alignment tool does more harm than good it seems. It sounds like the 4 rods 2 threaded rod design is bad. and what would be better is 3 threaded rods with a belt and 2 shafts. but that'd take effort and time and more importantly money to implement for me right now **[BMG Side Mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496429)** This helps you make your bowden tube shorter if you decide to go with bowden which is recommended. **Y Axis Extrusion Spacers:** Print two and use it to make sure the Second extrusions underneath the Y rods are parallel. simply push the extrusion up as much as you can with the two at the end. to be even more sure you can choose one when you're done and then re-align one side at a time or simply check them both with the same spacer to make sure they're not printed differently *unlikely* **SKR V1.3 cases:** https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3865517 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3902295/ (This one also has a space for a mosfet which you probably need if you're using a DC bed which I assume most are) **[Spool Holder for bowden](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3155344):** Cool spool holder that uses 3 608 bearings! I couldn't tighten the second screw due the design but it works well without it! **[Show off your Hypercube Evo with a logo!](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2586426):** Sadly lacks the S but I mean.. :P Edit: Now I have my Doot changer logo to go along with this xD **Parts that you need to find yourself:** Power Supply mount **more to come (purely plans at this point):** 5mm bore reinforced y carriages. Studier idler mounts as the current ones work just fine but could be better and stronger ~~Sturdied motor mounts that allow the rod to slide in~~ Done! Decoupled x-y steppers (hard to implement but would be awesome) Easier to use rod mounts Horizontal x rods or a v-slot extrusion for the X for reduced weight and added sturdiness ~~ Tool Changer or lifting nozzles ~~ Done! **Part Recommendations:** 1. For the hotend if you decide to go with a clone I recommend a genuine E3D heatbreak (preferable since you support the engineers) or the microswiss option (heard it's a bit better but you don't support the engineers that way) 2. For the extruder I REALLY recommend the BMG extruder. it's very good. and Extruders are one of the more important parts of a printer so I recommend you a trianglelabs bmg or if you can afford it a genuine bmg is a lot more expensive but a bit better. even in bowden I can do flexible easily but I never tried anything past 85a. But whatever you buy make sure it's at least geared! Hemera is currently a little too heavy for a budget corexy with thin rods like this, hopefully I can find rails in my country or even better potentially design a v slot system for the X axis only 3. I recommend you to stay away from igus bushings. they can have either play or friction since they're not very well suited to this sort of application but rather meant to be pressfit AFAIK 4. If you want a noctua fan get the thicker 20mm version. that one works very well for me but I heard bad things about the 10mm for use in 3d printers. plus I heard the 20mm is more quiet too. **General Recommendations:** Print all the parts in ABS. not only will this help in the future if you want a nice heated chamber but also ABS has far less flex than PETG (still relatively flexible tho. I wish I could use metal parts) so petg will likely cause more issues. ABS works fine for me on all parts. just use a chamber use 20-30% fan at most and don't remove it from the chamber too fast (sudden change in heat after the part is done can ruin the strength in my experience. not scientific just an experience) you can also try abs+ if you can't print normal abs well. I printed the tool change adapters from petg tho. Also throw a blanket over your printer as your enclosure as long as you don't burn your house down :P. Don't use 4 corner leveling. trust me 3 point leveling greatly helps with warping! you can permanently ruin your good heated bed if you do. but again the choice is yours! Don't use thin cheap PCB heated beds. use at least a 3mm thick Aluminium heated bed. A better option is to buy a silicone heater and a MIC6/Tooling plate aluminium sheet. be careful since the bed expanding shrinking can make the bed bow up and down 24V is far better specially for this printer. please try to use 24v. If there are only bulky loud power supplies available for you desired wattage (480w total in my case) you can buy a mosfet and a seperate PSU for your heated bed. or if you're brave enough use an AC heated bed (THIS NEEDS PRECAUTIONS AND SOME KNOWLEDGE, GROUND YOUR PRINTER AND USE THERMAL/NORMAL FUSES) Ground your frame. This can help with interference. simply connect one ground wire to the inside of one of your extrusion holes (the outside is not conductive) I highly recommend a 3:1 gear ratio extruder. the TriangleLab BMG is a great choice if you can't afford the genuine stuff. it makes a huge improvement to use a decent extruder! DON'T use dampeners of any sort for the XYE steppers. CoreXY printers are very sensitive to belt tension and angle, Because of this dampeners (corks or any other ones) can tilt the shaft of the motor resulting in uneven layer lines. if you mean to use dampeners you need to decouple the motors from the belts. Check out the voron 2.1 designs for more info. Use self-centering couplers if you can, There are even 3d printed designs available online but I recommend buying one. Normal ones work but this is more fool proof. if you wish to use grub screws be careful when screwing them in. even better are integrated leadscrews steppers If you use a spring type coupler put an 8mm Steel ball in and make sure both of the sides touch the ball inside, then before tightening the grub screw pull the coupler up to make it pull the shafts together. With a heavy bed you don't want any space left or for the couplers to act like springs that make the bed jump up and down will probably write a guide/document soon. again take all this with a grain of salt we dont know if i'll actually do anything xD **huge thanks to all of the people who made these lovely designs and akira3dp0 for providing fusion 360 files for the some of the ones I redesigned! (no nut carriage for example) and all the people on the 3d printing discord who gave me advise!** Update: I've been having a lot of issues with my printer so this is quiet slowed down. tho I managed to make my printer work okay again. i'm thinking of designing a better carriage tbh. I also am messing with direct drive. also doing some reaserach on what's better to do. so far I'm also going to order 10cm extrusions once they arrive. I wanna see how well the z axis works with the two sides disconnected from each other. this isn't my idea but it sounds genius! you know how 2 rods are far far easier to align? but it wobbles like crazy due the 3d printed trapozoidal nut bracket. and it bends easily and it's just not great. well this way you could treat the z like 2 sperate 2 rod axis :) sounds great in theory! I'll have to see Random 6-nov update. I'm reading so much and learning so much :) here are some videos about 2 things i experimented with. also experimenting with things like better rod holders and just beefier xy idlers (the one i designed is very easy to bend like the original sadly) I have around 100 test cubes by now :D I fixed my old anycubic to speed up the overall prototyping and all but sadly filament also costs money and everything takes time! https://photos.app.goo.gl/6b3kjhmzh3bxYimR9 this is 2 videos from stuff I tried! the nozzle probe works very well but the mount wobbles slightly and it's more of a fun thing i tried in the meanwhile to free my brain :) the other one is a far far more stronger mount for the xy motors that work very well but im' working on the mounting since it's a paint to install.