Toyota Corolla Intake MAF Tube

thingiverse

DON'T USE THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE HIGHER TEMPERATURE MATERIALS THAN THE HT PLA THAT I USED! THE MATERIAL GOT SOFT AND FAILED ON A WARM DAY, THOUGH IT WORKED FINE ALL WINTER. I'M ONLY KEEPING THIS ON HERE BECAUSE IT MIGHT BE USEFUL IF PEOPLE HAVE ACCESS TO MATERIALS THAT CAN DEAL WITH THE TEMPERATURES SEEN UNDER THE HOOD. ******************************** I built this for my 2009 Corolla. This should fit at least the North American E140 Wide Corollas from 2009-2013. It may work on other engines and models. If you have the same MAF sensor and the intake ducting is 2.5" in diameter, then you might be able to make this work. I noticed all the crazy ducting going into the intake on my Corolla and thought I could get a bit more performance and fuel economy out of a less restrictive intake. The problem was that I needed a place to connect my MAF sensor and a tee where I could bring the PCV into the intake. So, I drew this up in FreeCAD (file included in attachments), printed it using ProtoPasta HTPLA, and installed it in my Corolla. Make sure you stick to materials that can deal with under-hood temperatures. It's too early to say whether it helps with fuel economy. Also, it may be increasing the performance slightly, but my butt dyno isn't calibrated well enough to say. The stock intake ducting definitely muffles the intake, as the engine sounds much more snarly now, which is very cool in my book. To finish the MAF piece that is printed, you'll have to polish the inside of the MAF sensor hole and I pre-drilled the hold-down screw standoffs at 3.5mm using the actual sensor as a guide to ensure I got the hole placement exactly right. The other pieces needed were: -A 2.5" silicone hose with a 45 degree bend. I used this one and had to trim 1.5" or so from the end to make everything fit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CB22BL6 -A 2.5" conical dry flow filter. I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DRZQVBR With those I used the stock clamps from the Corolla's intake. I had to reroute the wiring for the MAF a bit and zip-tied it to the printed piece to ensure there wouldn't be strain at the connector. I had to trim some material from one of the standoffs to make it work. The current STL attached to this entry has the material removed, so it shouldn't take as much work to use the part.