Tronxy X3S NO CONTROLLER BOX!

thingiverse

I finished up with the Tronxy X3 control box removal and started to work on the X3S version. NOTE: This is for the kit version of the X3S. It may work on the pre-built version too. The pre-built version uses the exact same components in the control box so it should work. I have a couple of the X3S pre-built printers and the main difference is the 20x40 frame rather than the 20x20 frame on the kit printer. There are a few other differences but those should not affect this conversion. Start with the legs and get the frame up off of the table so that the components can be mounted. Attach the legs with 4mmx10mm screws and "boat" nuts. Start with the ones on the bottom of the legs and then install the side screws. You will need to slide the nuts in from the side. The PC boards and enclosure covers attach with RC servo screws (#2 or 2mm self tapping screws). The reset switch extension is made with a piece of filament that the ends have been flattened using a soldering iron. To straighten the filament you can place it on the heat bed while printing and the filament should relax and go back to the straight way it was extruded. If it doesn't, heat the filament with a heat gun and as soon as you see it start to go limp, lay it down on your table top or cool heat bed and roll it. It will become arrow straight. Both a 20A stock power supply mount and the 30A mount is included. The 30A is a good upgrade for the X3S. Another good upgrade is the MatterHackers magnetic build plate. Super easy to remove those big prints! Enjoy the added convenience of having the printer as one piece to move and less table top area taken up.