Tube Cutting Jig

thingiverse

I needed a way to cut thin walled brass tubing - and was unhappy with the results I was getting from a hobby miter box. Jewelry supply stores sell hand-held cutting jigs, but they typically only handle up to 1/4" diameter tubing, more expensive jigs will do 1/2". This jig has the benefit of holding a long piece of tubing rigidly while it is cut, and I was able to get perpendicular-enough cuts for my use. To get absolutely perfect cuts, you might need to use a dedicated miniature chop saw. **Supplies required:** * A length of angle iron: 1-1/2" x 1-1/2", 1/8" thick * Metal file (to true up the end of the angle iron) * C-clamps **Instructions:** Print a TEST V-block, 10mm in the Z, to make sure the V-blocks fit snugly. Adjust %'s until they fit correctly. Print a minimum of 2 V-blocks, and one V-block for C-clamp. For every extra v-block that you print, print an extra V-block for C-clamp. The C-clamp will press down on the Circle Block (design your own for what you are clamping) which presses down on the tube. While your parts are printing, find a perpendicular reference, and file down one end of the angle iron until it is to your liking. Once printed, Slide the V-block on one end, slide the V-block for C-clamp on, then another V-block (basically, alternate). The C-clamp will use the V-block or V-block for C-clamp to press against on the bottom. **Instructions for Use:** Mark your tube, and take into account the kerf of the blade. Using two c-clamps, carefully fix the tube in place with a Circle Block spreading the load on the metal tube. A V-block should be below the clamp. Using a metal saw - I'm fond of a jewelers saw - carefully press the blade up against the angle iron and cut. Provided the blade is angled correctly, it should waver very little. Also, in choosing a saw, the less set on the saw the better (ie, flush cut) since this will be rubbing up against the metal guide. While not soft, it can be sawn into since it won't be hardened steel. **Future Improvements:** * Screw holes in the V-block to affix to a wooden board * Semi-permanent clamp fixation - right now the clamp is loose * Flexible top block for clamping to a variety of tube diameters (ie, thicker design for TPU) * Slightly more "generic" V-block design, or openSCAD (customizer) variant. Reason being, this was measured to fit the angle iron from a local hardware store, and may not work with the angle iron you find in your store. I'd be happy to code up an openSCAD variant for customization.