Tux3DP Weather Station

thingiverse

# 3D Printed Weather Station A WeMos based 3D printed WiFi weather station [TuxSoft Weather Station on GitHub](https://github.com/tuxsoft/WeatherStation) You can download everything from here including the source code for the WeMoss and the TUX3DP driver for weewx. Here are videos of it [running](https://youtu.be/rjHQcb2TLco) the [prototype](https://youtu.be/aZx2rsJ8Lec) and how to use [OTA](https://youtu.be/7__c9c8BN8w) I have been meaning to build a weather station for a few years then recently I saw Dan Bemowski's https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2757369 This got me inspired, and I used his mounting idea and designed a new weather station from scratch. This also gave me a chance to play with the ESP8266 Arduino integration, I like it ! I have created my own simple JSON format, I like the KISS approach ! Included is a driver for weeWX, TuxSoft3DP to install it download the zip file and use the command *`wee_extensions --install tuxsoft3dp.zip`* I have chosen to also implement Weatherflow V40 protocol since that should provide ready to use software solutions, in particular I am investigating weeWx. [WeatherFlow](https://weatherflow.github.io/SmartWeather/api/udp/v40/) [weeWx](http://www.weewx.com/) [Weatherflow Driver for weeWx by Arthur Emerson](https://github.com/captain-coredump/weatherflow-udp) To use this driver D3 must be pulled LOW ## Software: The main components is the embedded firmware in the Wemoss, in addition there is are a few simple python modules that comprise of the weewx driver (TuxSoft3DP) and a simple GUI based Weather monitor that provides a wind direction indicator and some basic information that is updated as received by the station. The other module is a simple UDP packet monitor primarily used for debugging and to detect when OTA mode is enabled. The Wemoss code is compiled in with the Arduino (1.8.9) IDE, things that you might like to modify are.. * Everything * INVERT_VANE if you end up installing your magnet backwartds (see src.ino) * Static or DHCP IP (see src.ino) * The hostname for OTA (see src.ino look for ESP.getChipId ) * WindSpeed() its not tested just trivially calculated (see src.ino) * The volume of your tipper, it might be different to mine after printing and sealing. Originally I had decided to send weather data every 20 seconds and not turn the WiFi off, this in my case consumed approximately 70mA continually since in reality the solar panel only gives 120ma in full sun the recharge rate was not enough to sustain the system. I changed the code to send data only every 2 minutes and to sleep the WiFi modem in between. This reduced the power to 33mA and spikes it up to 70mA for a few seconds while data is being transferred. This technique is great but for OTA to work it is a PIA. To overcome this problem I sacrificed a few seconds of power after each packet transmission and spend a few seconds looking for a UDP request to enable OTA, if found OTA is enabled for 60 seconds. **OTA HOWTO** You need Python and netcat then open two terminal windows along with your Arduino IDE ready, In one terminal run *`udp_test.py`* in the other terminal have the following command primed and ready to go *`echo -n OTA | nc -u -w0 192.168.1.40 55550`* on windows ignore -n Next when you see a weather packet received immediately send the OTA with netcat, you should then see a second packet that confirms OTA was enabled. Now send the update via OTA using the Arduino IDE You can see this procedure  ## Hardware: * 1.5M 15mm copper pipe (class 1 or better) * 1 x Elbow 90Deg 15mm copper * 5 x 15mm copper equal T junction * 3 x 15mm copper straight junctions * 3 x stainless hose clamps to fit 15mm pipe * Some method to mount the 15mm tube to your desired location. * 3 x Stainless M3x6 self tapping screws for rain gauge * 12 x Stainless M3x10 self tapping screws for shield * 1 x Stainless or Brass M5 30mm bolt * 1 x Brass M5 50mm bolt * 2 x M5 Nuts and washers to match above * 2 x 608ZZ ceramic "spinner" bearings. * 2 x 6mm x 3mm neodymium magnets (round) * 1 x 3144 Hall effect sensor board Eg. KY-003 * 1 x BPI-3C1-05 IR Photo Interrupter (Slotted Optical Switch) * 1 x 10K resistor * 1 x GY-271 Magnetometer -- QMC5883L not Adafruit version * 1 x BMP280 I2C Barometer Module * 1 x DHT22 Humidity Sensor * 1 x ML8511 UV sensor * 1 x WeMos D1 Esp-Wroom-02 with integrated 18650 battery * 1 x 220K resistor (See note A) * 1 x 100K resistor (See note A) * 1 x 18650 battery * 1 x Small DIY solar panel https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Solar-Panel-5V-6V-12V-Mini-Solar-System-DIY-For-Battery-Cell-Phone-Chargers-Portable-Solar/32823762479.html * 1 x buck360 or similar to regulate solar to 5V I chose the 12V 1.5W and plan to use a buck if needed, it has not arrived yet so can only tell once Chinese product arrives what you actually get :) Modifications, I re-soldered the hall sensor to be close to the PCB and replaced the connectors with silicone wires directly into the sensor. The rain gauge is small and a tight fit. You also need to ensure that the tipper activated on one side and not the other. You can "weaken" your magnet in the tipper if needed by applying heat from a soldering iron for a few seconds. Play it by ear and get a few magnets. On the tipper make sure you cover your magnet and sensor board with silicone sealant, this is required to prevent corrosion. **ML8511 -- WARNING !!! READ THIS !!! (See note A)** The ESP8266 ADC range is from zero to one volt, the output from the ML8511 will be to 3.3V so a resistor divider is needed to get it into range as follows .. ESP-A0 ----+---[220K]-----< ML8511 | +---[100K]-----< GND You will also need to solder the 10K pullup resistor to the BPI-3C1-05 between 3.3V and D7 on the ESP. I did this and added a 3 pin header then hot glued it to tack it into position. Epoxy was used to permanently mount the IR switch. You will need to cobble up all cables to fit your mounting, in the images folder I have pics of what I did. ## Note A I have not yet received the WeMoss with battery, but from what I can tell there is already a 220K/100K divider built into the board for the analogue input. Like all things from China this must be verified before assumption. Update,indeed the divider was Included on the board. ## 3D Printing When printing some filaments are semi transparent to IR light, so printing the anemometer encoder wheel can be a problem, I used so aluminum tape on the top of the encoder wheel. You need to enable supports, NB When you assemble the weather vane, one of the neodymium magnets must be placed in the cone then the support rod inserted. The orientation will determine the calibration of the Weather Cock (vane) ## Weather Proofing This is DIY, silicone sealant and Rust-O-Leam Rule, common sense is a must. ## Calibration The rain gauge radius is 34mm so its area is 0.03637932 M2, this gives 36.38 ml as the volume that equates to 1mm of rain. I measure my tipper and it takes 1.9mm to tip thus each tip is 0.05227 mm of rain, 0.52 therefor is my chosen value. Field testing will confirm if its close enough. The small size of the gauge reduces its accuracy but I think it is good enough to measure trends, also I imagine the high winds we often get affect a tipper as well. ## Misc Notes It is *very important* not to mount the rain gauge to close to the weather vane as the magnet in the tipper will affect the manometer used by the weather vane. By the same token using ceramic bearings and brass nuts and bolts are the preferred materials. Removing those cheap and nasty steel "pins" in the sensors and replacing them with good quality copper wires might also be a benefit. Most importantly this is a fun project for me, its my first experience in weather stations of any kind and as such no warranties of any sort are made for anything.. nada but that said I hope it proves reliable and useful. # The mounting assembly Cut the copper pipe int the following lengths and label them accordingly.. * A - 200mm * B - 220mm * C - 100mm * D - 120mm * E - 50mm * F - 100mm * G - 50mm * H - 150mm * I - 30mm The rest of the pipe you will use to attach to the mount you desire. Slot the 3 straight junctions on one side as shown, this will allow you to clamp them to the printed mounting points. Start by soldering the unslotted ends of the junctions, one to each pipe labeled **A**, **C**, and **F** Beh .. look at the images and fabricate the mounts, take care to orientate your solar panel correctly in relation to the weather vane