Unifi G3 Instant Camera Outdoor Housing

prusaprinters

<p>Outdoor Housing for a "Ubiquiti Unifi G3 Instant" Camera.</p><p>I created this by remixing three thingiverse designs:</p><p><strong>"Stable and waterproof OpenSCAD case" by pbtec</strong><br><strong>"Customizable Ball Joint" by kijja</strong><br><strong>"90° Bracket (Parametarised)" by gineer</strong></p><p><strong>Thanks to the authors of these great OpenSCAD designs.</strong></p><h3>&nbsp;</h3><p><strong>Introduction</strong></p><p>The "Ubiquiti Unifi G3 Instant" Camera is a low cost, small 1080p indoor camera for use with<br>A UniFi OS hardware Console together with the UniFi Protect application.</p><p>This is my first attempt at making an outdoor housing for it.</p><p><strong>Parts to get:</strong></p><ul><li>A small piece of 2mm thick clear Acrylic or "Perspex" plastic sheet for the housing window.</li><li>12mm diameter cable gland for the power cable.</li><li>Epoxy adhesive for sealing the housing window etc.</li><li>"D-SUN" 5Volt 3A Mini MP1584EN voltage regulator module.</li><li>Power lead and power supply.</li><li>6 x M3 bolts (12mm long) &amp; nuts.</li><li>USB-C male DIY solder breakout board adapter.</li><li>Silicone grease (for sealing around the case lid recess).</li><li>Black Rubber plumbing washer (with14mm inside &amp; 24mm outside diameter, 2mm thick) to fit over lens. (to prevent IR LEDs reflection)</li></ul><p><strong>Step1: Make the Base section.</strong></p><p>Open the "Unifi G3 Instant_Case_Base" STL file in Cura.</p><ul><li>Set the Infill Density to 100% (for best water-resistance).</li><li>No supports are required for this part.</li><li>Slice it and in "Preview mode" make a note of the layer number just before it completes making the pockets for the M3 nuts.</li><li>Add a "Post Processing script" to "Pause at height", select "Pause at" and change from height to "Layer number" - then on the next line, enter your noted layer number.<br>(This will pause the print while the nuts are inserted).</li><li>After printing, Carefully cut to fit the clear plastic acrylic for the window. (it should measure about 36 x 31 mm).</li><li>Glue the window into the case using epoxy (check all edges are sealed).</li><li>Check the case around the area where the print paused. ( My printer left a small partial gap in the wall where it resumed). If so, spread a thin line of epoxy along the gap on the outside and inside to help seal the case wall and strengthen it.</li><li>Fit the cable gland.</li></ul><p><strong>Step 2: Make the Top case section</strong></p><p>Open the "Unifi G3 Instant_Case_Top" STL file in Cura.</p><ul><li>Set the Infill Density to 100% (for best water-resistance).</li><li>Enable supports.</li><li>After printing, pull-out the supports and check the water-seal recess is free of debris.</li></ul><p><strong>Step 3: Make the ball joint</strong></p><ul><li>Print the other three parts of the ball joint.</li><li>Check the socket nut screws onto the socket properly. (If not Adjust the "ball nut tolerance"<br>parameter in the case openSCAD file and create a new STL file.)</li></ul><p><strong>Step 4: Wire-up and fit the camera</strong></p><p>The Unifi G3 Instant Camera is normally powered by a 5Volt adapter with a right-angled<br>male USB-C 2M long cable.</p><p>Using it outdoors, I needed a much longer cable. I decided to use a Male USB-C solder-able breakout plug adapter. (These are available cheaply from eBay - search for "usb c connector diy").<br>With a long power cable length, it may drop the 5 Volt supply voltage a bit. It may still work. (I haven't tested it.)<br>I decided to use a 12V 1 Amp mains adapter and a small D-SUN fixed 5V voltage<br>regulator module fitted inside the camera housing.<br>These modules are available from eBay (search for "MP1584EN")<br><strong>NOTE</strong> There are versions of this D-SUN regulator that have a variable voltage output. (If you use that type you MUST adjust the output to exactly 5V BEFORE connecting to the camera - otherwise the camera will be ruined!)<br>The regulator and USB-C adapter have to be correctly wired-up and soldered.<br>Any mistake here can cause the wrong voltage or polarity to be applied to the camera - which will ruin it!<br>Double check the regulator output voltage with a meter and check the connections to the<br>USB-C solder pads are correct ( +5V to VCC &amp; GND to GND).</p><ul><li>Trim the rubber washer to fit over the end of the lens without covering the light sensor, IR leds or microphone - (see photo)</li><li>Plug-in the USB plug and place the camera into the case without allowing the washer to fall off. Place the regulator PCB into the case recess near the camera.</li><li>Temporarily check the case top fits onto the base and holds the camera pressed up against the window.</li><li>If all okay, power-on the camera and check it works with your Unifi console.</li><li>The status LED can be turned-off in the console if preferred.</li></ul><p><strong>Step 5: Waterproofing and fitting the case lid</strong></p><p>The case has a ridge and groove intended as a water barrier.</p><p>The original waterproof case design instructions by pbtec mentions ways to seal this using silicone sealing cord and provides a useful link for more information:<br>[<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/watertight-3d-printing-part-2_53638/">https://blog.prusaprinters.org/watertight-3d-printing-part-2\_53638/</a>]</p><p>I didn't have any sealing cord, so I used "No. 2 Silicone Grease" (available from eBay).</p><p>I carefully spread it into the groove of the case lid, ensuring none is missed.</p><p>Then screw on the lid, fit the ball and attach it all to the 90 degree bracket.</p><p>I also put some PVC tape around the lid joint as an extra attempt to keep out the water.</p><p>So far it has been working outside for about two weeks - only time will tell if it stays waterproof?</p><p><strong>What could be improved?</strong></p><ul><li>The housing prevents the microphone or speaker being used. I don't need these but maybe there could be a way to make the case wall thinner near these to allow sound through?</li><li>I used PLA for the housing because I could not get PETG to adhere properly after the pause for adding the M3 nuts. PETG would provide better outdoor weather protection.</li><li>Maybe the case could be coated completely with epoxy resin for better weather protection?</li></ul>