Vaessen Motorsports Sequential Shifter

Vaessen Motorsports Sequential Shifter

thingiverse

This is the Vaessen Motorsports sequential shifter, I have designed this to be a solid shifter with a mechanical feel. It also involves off the shelf parts to make assembly easy. You will need a basic set of tools and a soldering iron. I would recommend printing at 100% infill to keep this nice and strong. Parts needed: M8 x 50 studding (shorturl.at/fBOU2) 1 x m6 x 18 countersunk bolt (shorturl.at/EHJO9) 6 x m6 x 40 cap head bolts (shorturl.at/vwG78) 6 x m6 nyloc nuts (shorturl.at/bnwAT) 1 x m6 nut (shorturl.at/rABSX)* 1 x m6 x 20 stud connector (round) (shorturl.at/CNQ26) 2 x m6 x 10 cap head bolts (shorturl.at/vwG78) 1 x m6 x 60 cap head bolt (shorturl.at/vwG78) 4 x m6 countersunk bolts for mounting (shorturl.at/tJOP3) 1 x m6 female rod end (shorturl.at/citQ8) 1 x 18mm OD x 2mm section x 30mm long compression spring (Flexosprings code 243510/243610 depending on how strong you want it to be) 4 x m10 nuts (shorturl.at/rABSX) 2 x m10 x 20 ball plunger grub screws (shorturl.at/jkryC) 2 x m4 x 20 penny washers (shorturl.at/jxU69) 2 x micro switches (shorturl.at/awU01) 1 x zero delay encoder (with usb b) (shorturl.at/acPQX) Optional 1 x 25 ID x 5mm wall foam grip (https://tinyurl.com/2k4frcms) I am currently looking for another spring supplier as flexosprings have a minimum order charge, however they sell the correct spring so I have linked them for now. Assembly: To assemble this you will need to first remove the supports, then tap out the upright section to m6 where the rod end bearing will go. You will also need to tap out the grip and handle to m8. The handle will need to be drilled out to 10mm to fit the stud connector (make sure this isn't a tight fit as this is the pivot point for the handle. Solder one of the micro switches onto its wire and use a bit of super glue to hold it into place. Then thread the second wire through the cavity and solder it in place (this will not be removable unless the wire is cut). To assemble the spring assembly you will need to slide (in this order) spring holder 2 onto the m6 x 60 cap head bolt, followed by the spring, then spring holder 1, then the m6 nut, then screw this into the rod end. The spring will need to be compressed to 25mm for it to fit inside the casing properly and return to centre. This can then be screwed into the handle with the m6 x 18 countersunk bolt. once this has been done, fit the penny washers into the handle (preferably with a drop of super glue to make assembly easier). *Spring assembly update* I have modified the files so the nut is removed, this means the m6 x 60 cap head will screw straight into the rod end. You will need to use loctite so that it will not come undone, however this gives more accuracy when assembling as you can adjust the bolt when assembled so it is in the right place. I have updated the cross section view to show this. At this point, the encoder board can be fit at the bottom of side 2 and the micro switches can be plugged in. One of the m10 nuts can be seated into side 2 also, if it is not a snug fit, use a drop of superglue to hold it in place. The handle can then be slid over the stud connector and the spring assembly can be seated (make sure the penny washer has not fallen out). Side 1 will now need the m10 nut seating, once this has been done it can be bolted onto side 2 with the m8 x 40 cap head bolts and the m6 nyloc nuts. Make sure the penny washer and nut dont fall out and are sandwiched in correctly. Once bolted together, you can then screw the grub screws in each side, making sure to not overtighten, this will need to be tuned to your liking. Once you have tuned it, screw on the outer nut to lock the grub screw into place. Enjoy!

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