Wanhao i3/Maker Select/Cocoon Create Titan Extuder mounting plate

Wanhao i3/Maker Select/Cocoon Create Titan Extuder mounting plate

thingiverse

Update (7/31): Achoo01 and I talked on reddit and he found me on here and gave me an idea about improving the Titan mounting plate. It'll either be a version 2 of the mounting plate or a legit X carriage, so stay tuned for more. Update (7/27): Fully updated version that uses M4 button head screws. Update (7/27): After much consideration I have decided ton redesign the mounting plate so it'll use button head hex screws instead of socket cap hex screws because buttoned head heads are smaller than socket caps and will allow for more area to be gripped by the screw. I'll boil it down for you. The mounting olate itself is 7.5mm thick, M4 socket cap heads are 4mm tall meaning (I made the counter sink hole the same height) you'll only get about 3mm actual mounting with the M4 screws. As for button head screws the head is about 2.2mm tall (I rounded it off to 2.5mm when redesigning the countersink hole depth) so now you'll have 4.5mm of plate gripping the screw. I'd recommend you use M4 button heads a that are 12mm ifor you're using the stock metal bearing blocks screw which will give you 7.5mm of screw grip into the bearing blocks, but if you're using 3D printed bearing blocks the the ones designed by user thustvedt I'd recommend something like 16mm in length which will give you a longer 11.5mm screw grip into the 3D printed bearing block but if you want to use the 12mm button heads I won't stop you but I do worry you'll get a lesser stronger bond. I'll post the newer mounting plate later on tonight because as if right now I am on the road heading to a vacationdestination, but I thought I'd update this page I'm out on the open road. Update (7-25): I fixed some minor mistakes on the mounting plate so if so please get the new and improved version! Also there's not a lot of space to put in a print cooling mod, so I'm currently creating my own. I'll release it within a week. So I wanted a Titan + E3D V6 on my Wanhao i3 but couldn't seem to find a mount for it (except for an eerily similar Titan mount for the Zonestar P802M, but it should be noted that I did not remix this from that) so I came up with my own. It is now designed for the used of M4 button head screws (I originally designed it to use socket head screws). Now if you leave your Wanhao i3/Maker Select/Cocoon Create as is this Titan mount will crash into the top bar thingy so be sure to use the 3rd-rail Z tower brace created by user delukart. That's all I have, have a nice day and happy printing! PS: I used some random titan spacer I found on here, but I can't remember who made it so I'm sorry to whoever made it I can't give you credit. Big shout out to you for sure, and if I ever remember who you were I'll be sure to credit you. PSS: You can use the stock extruder motor for this set up, but it'll crash into the other side of the X axis and you'll lose X length, so I highly recommend you a 18Ncm NEMA 17 pancake motor which can plug into the stock extruder plugin and you don't have to do any wire replacing. If you want less power like some Titan users do you could use a 13Ncm NEMA 17 pancake motor but I do not (emphasis on not) recommend doing that because the 13Ncm version doesn't have a plugin but rather the wires are just wired directly into the motor meaning you'll have to totally replace the printer's extruder wires which I don't want to do, but hey whatever salts your soup. [Links] Titan dummy model I used when making it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1514324 Wanhao bearing block i used when desinging this. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1172838 3rd-rail Z tower brace: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454073 18Ncm NEMA 17 Pancake Motor: http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-bipolar-step-motor-29v-07a-18ncm255ozin-17hs100704s-p-260.html 13Ncm NEMA 17 Pancake Motor: http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-bipolar-step-motor-35v-1a-13ncm184ozin-17hs081004s-p-101.html Print Settings Printer: Wanhao Duplicator i3/Maker Select/Cocoon Create Rafts: No Supports: Doesn't Matter Infill: Anything above 50% Notes: Use a strong filament. I'll personally be using PETG, but ABS could work. If you want to be all fancy shmancy you could go with carbon fiber PLA or polycarbonate of you can push your Wanhao i3/Maker Select/Cocoon Create to do so. Instructions Now as I said I haven't gone through with the full Titan conversion yet but I'll be going about it like this. Things you'll need ● A Titan Extruder ● An E3D V6 hotend ● Either the stock extruder motor or a 13Ncm/18Ncm NEMA 17 stepper motor (I highly reccomend you use a 18Ncm NEMA 17 pancake motor out of all of these options) ● The 3rd rail tower brace mod made by user delukart ● 12 M4 button head hex screws 12mm 16mm long ● The 2 stock Wanhao drag chains that house the wires ● The stock hex flat head screw that attacks the drag chain onto the hotend mounting plate. ● The three stock X axis bearing blocks (or you can substitute three 3D printed stock bearing blocks) ● Time and effort Optional step: 3D print off 3 bearing blocks for the x axis (I have them linked because I used it while I was designing my plate) Step 1: Print off and install the 3rd rail tower brace mod and intall it onto your Wanhao i3/Maker Select/Cocoon Create Step 2: Print off Titan plate using a strong plastic such as ABS or PETG with and infill of 50% or above (me personally I'll be using 60%). Step 3: Remove everything from X axis. Meaning unplug everything. The thermistor, the fans, unscrew the extruder from its mount, out the hotend, take out the heater cartridge if you can, strip it all down until it's just the steel mounting plate thingy that mounts the hotend. Step 4: Remove the old hotend mounting plate. Step 5: Remove the bearing blocks from the x axis. This will involve removing the smooth rods so set the two smooth rods aside for later. Step 6: Using the 12mm/16mm long button head hex screws screw the mounting plate onto the bearing blocks. Step 7: Take the Titan extruder and the Nema 17 pancake motor and attach them onto the mounting plate. The motor should be on the right side. Step 8: Attach E3D V6 into Titan extruder Step 9: (optional but it'll help you skip step 10). Attach a female header onto the stock hotendrag wire, and a male connector onto the E3D V6 hotend wire. This will save you from fishing the hotend wires through the drag chains (note I thing they're called female and male connectors, I'm still getting new to the whole electrical world) Step 9.5: Make the wire lengths shorter for the thermistor because you'll be plugging into the stock thermistor plug later on and don't need to plug it all the way into the board. Step 10: (This is only if you didn't do/want to do step 9. Me personally I'll be doing this because I want thicker wires taking on the hotend electrical current): Fish the E3D V6 hotend wire through the drag chains. I've been told you can use the stock plugin for the NEMA 17 extruder motor on a NEMA 17 pancake motor so no need to fish newer motor wires through the drag chains (unless you want to). Step 11: Attach the X axis smooth rods that were removed in step 5 back into the bearings, and attach them onto the x axis (make sure you don't attach the whole thing upside down lol). Step 12: Attach the drag chain onto the mounting plate with the stock m3 flat head screw. Step 13: Plug everything into their appropriate plug-ins (the thermistor is the the thermistor plugin, the hotend wire is in the hotend plugin if you did step 8, the heatbreak fan is plugged in, and the NEMA 17 pancake is plugged in as well). Once that's one make sure the hotend and extruder works properly. Step 14: Take your current e-steps per mm value (on the Wanhao i3/Maker Select/Cocoon Create it's 96) and multiply it by 3.58 to get the new e-steps per mm value (if you have it to 96 it's 350.84). Full credit goes to Ultimaker forum user Marcel2016 for calculating the Titan extruder multiplier, if you're you're there bug thank you my friend (link to the forum post: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21029-e3d-titan-extruder-firmware-settings ) Step 15: Level the bed. Step 16: (optional): Print off a calibration test or two to make sure everything is running properly. Step 18: CONGRATULATIONS! You've successfully converted Wanhao i3/Maker Select/Cocoon Create to a Titan extruder. Give yourself a big pat on the back!

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