'Water / Shower Powered "Turbine" Mods - Exhaust redirection, Connectors, Printing Improvements

thingiverse

There has been several requests to redirect exhaust to a certain 'spot... Because of the way the turbine is designed, and the shape of the shell (lack of extra space) this is a very difficult request and would require a complete redesign. I don't have the source files, so doing this is not an option for me. I'm not going to put that much time into it. What I've done is externally rerouted the exhaust via a little tube that you print in 3 sections (to make it easy), then glue together. Depending on your slicer or printer, the rear face of the tube may have gaps in the wall, or may be missing its back wall entirely. This is ok. It may actually work better without the back wall because it technically makes for more space for water to flow. Because of this gap, you will need to seal it off against the main body with either CA glue (permanent) or hot glue (temporary). I've also modeled and added several connectors to use with PC cooling hose, in case you don't have a handheld and don't wanna spend 40$ on one just to try this thing out. My shower has a 3/4 inch pipe, so this is what I've designed it around. Since the toy appears to be 1/2 inch. I couldn't find a proper reducer or a hose that had 3/4 on one end and 1/2 on the other. If you have the newer 1/2 inch showers, you should be able to use the connector from the toy side on both ends, but wont have the 45 degree elbow. So there is a shower connector, a toy connector, and there's a bridge connector. Say you have 2 sections of hose from past builds laying around... Well print a bridge connector and attach them to make one long hose. The connectors have 3 versions of each of them. The difference is the nipple diameter. There is an 8mm, a 9mm, and a 10mm. They are all designed for 1/2 inch tubing, thought hr 8mm could work for slightly smaller tubing with tight zip ties. The 8mm is designed for the old school stiff tubing (the old plasticized stuff), with the use of zip ties. The 9mm is for traditional 1/2 inch soft tubing, with the use of zip ties. The 10mm is for the traditional soft 1/2 inch tubing, but when zip ties aren't available (or if you happen to be using larger tubing) - This one is designed to be very tight and you will likely need a lighter to heat the tubing so it will slip over the nipple - I give no guarantee that it will hold whatever pressure your house receives, or hold up to you plugging exhaust holes, so use with caution. There is also an improvement on the toy itself, where the inlet is. When printing, you dont want support inside it. You want structures on the outside to help anchor it and keep it from rocking. So you use "touching build plate" settings on the support. But on the original toy, there is a roof inside the inlet that causes it to generate support inside that little hole, which can be quite annoying to remove. It will no longer do this. Simply set "touching build plate" on the support and drop the angle until only the roof of the exhaust holes recieve support. This should generate 6 towers all around the print. If you need support around the base either for quality issues or to get more support around it, sooner, then increase the angle. This will eventually generate a doughnut around the lower shell. It can be tricky to remove so make sure you know proper support settings like interface and the 2/3rd rule on gap. Enjoy- DevWolf