Yet Another Ultimaker 2 Feeder - robspin

thingiverse

The Ultimaker 2 extended came with a 2.85mm diameter filament feeder/extruder and attempting to use 1.75mm diameter filament resulted in many failed prints. This is a collection of upgrades that allowed more reliable operation: Sfriedi has a combined |Robert| and Geeks extruder located at:http://www.youmagine.com/designs/yet-another-ultimaker-2-feeder (abbreviated YAUM2). ==>(This is a respin of Sfriedi, so you will need to download the files from YAUM2.) I've added the YAUM2 files to make this download complete. There are only 3 pieces of the complete set that I reworked: 1) A modified |Robert| extruder with "yet another UM2 feeder" modifications: a) pulleys to straighten the filament before feeding it in b) a grommet (instead of Bowden tube) filament inlet which was standard on UM2 (Sfriedi has only the older UM Bowden tube version, so I stole the grommet section from |Robert| to update it.) 2) A yoke with built in filament feeder to prevent buckling of thinner 1.75mm filament and embossed lettering to identify length of yoke. (Alternative is a snap-on guide, see below) 3) An integrated wire-capture clamp on the feeder arm to keep the hot-end wires out of the way of the filament Separately I've added a device to manage the unruly filament on the reels: 4) A hanging reel filament guide that keeps the filament from springing off the reel and then knotting. Not every problem is solved--the 3mm filament was brittle and near the end of the reel it was curved so tightly that the straightening pulleys snapped it. I don't have a solution other than buying fresher filament. Perhaps an electric heating pad can prewarm the filament? History footnote Here is a list of other helpful designs that inspired the above respin. Sfriedi is a respin of |Robert| extruder at: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two User pmdude integrated a 1.75mm (and 2.85mm) filament guide with the v6 yoke of YAUM2.http://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-iroberti-s-feeder-v6-yoke-and-hub-with-guide Alternatively there is a modified snap-on guide for 1.75mm filament:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1147029 But you can't use both. Note: the "NO_PRINT" parts are used by OpenSCAD to construct the STL models. Print Settings Printer Brand: Ultimaker Printer: Ultimaker 2 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: Stock 0.4mm Infill: 1.00 Notes: Extruder parts were printed at 100% infill for strength, but I still managed to snap them. Hanging reel filament guide doesn't need strength though, so I printed it at 20% infill. The Customizer app can't handle STL input files, so to make this thing you need to: 1) download the sfriedi STL files from the youmagine site listed above. You need to make prints of all of them (two of the pulleys) but don't print these 3 parts: (a) don't print the feeder_guidearm. (b) don't print the feeder body. (c) don't print the v6_yoke. 2) download the robspin files. The modified ones are labeled YAF***.stl Alternatively, you can fire up the OpenSCAD program "YAF_body4grommet.scad" and somewhat modify the three parts before printing them (it is not fully parameterized). 3) The hanging reel filament guide is separate, and fully parametrized. Just pick the dimensions for your filament reel. Post-Printing Cleanup The |Robert| extruder comes with removable supports. His website has extensive details on how to clean up the lever-arm and outer extruder body and assemble it. Some additional metal hardware is required for the extruder, mostly a M3 (or #4-40) bolt that is 30mm long. How I Designed This Chopshop vs Parametric The hanging filament guide was built in OpenScad, by taking measurements off the STL file from a slightly different sized reel. This makes it completely parametric for any size reel. The extruder and yoke, unfortunately, was available to me only as a STL file. So I have used OpenSCAD as a "chop shop", importing STL files and slicing them into functional units that can be stretched or compressed to fit. That means there are files marked "NO_PRINT" which are the original STL files that must be read into the OpenSCAD file before manipulating. With a great deal more time (something I don't have), a complete OpenSCAD model can be designed and then the input files won't be necessary.