anet a8 hot end upgrade 3d models
279807 3d models found related to anet a8 hot end upgrade.thingiverse
I designed this model because moisture or dust sometimes entered the extruder, causing problems.\nThe design is compatible with 1.75, 2.85, and 3mm filament.\nTo assemble all parts, use a filament filter once (FilamentFilter_Side_1 and...
thingiverse
I have been working on my Anet for several months now, and today is the day I can confidently say everything is improved and works perfectly. Everything you need is in the ZIP file, so extract it and print away! Here are the links to the parts you...
thingiverse
This is an updated version of my Air Duct, sourced from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2135330. The 5630 LED strips are now protected by a cover to prevent overheating damage. I've revised the design for secure attachment to the carriage and...
thingiverse
I'm adding a feature to this spool holder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2224321. ...A small bracket eliminates the wobble in the X-axis, keeping the threaded rod securely attached to the spool holder and preventing it from twisting off.
thingiverse
As I wanted to avoid bowden in my printer, I modified Don1337's design so it could be used as a direct extruder. The fan duct for the heatbreak I'm using is from IsmaelPR1's model. I'm also sharing the blender file here for anyone who wants it.
thingiverse
Includes files for the cover and adapter needed if using the original mounting holes. Utilizes M4 and M3 hardware components. ... PSU: Find this product on Amazon at...
thingiverse
This custom Backplate serves as a substitute for the tensioner holder found on Thingiverse, specifically the item with ID 2006595. ...To create it, use bolts and nuts sourced from your local hardware store.
thingiverse
I've experienced filament snags causing prints to fail. These issues often stem from excessive stress on the filament roll due to the back-and-forth motion of the extrusion head. To address these problems, I decided to experiment with using a Bowden...
thingiverse
Like others the originals were too small internally for my wingnuts and too large externally and were hitting my printer frame. I tweaked it in Blender to remedy both issues and now my wing nuts fit well and it doesn't hit the frame. Very easy and...
thingiverse
Required screws 2x M3 x30mm for the hotend, 4x M3 x20mm for the fan and the strap.
thingiverse
Changing filaments has always been a hassle for me, but this setup makes it effortless because you can clearly see where the nozzle's inlet is located. I've also swapped out the two M3 x 45 screws, and I'm now using two threaded rods measuring M3 x...
prusaprinters
<p>Like others the originals were too small internally for my wingnuts and too large externally and were hitting my printer frame. I tweaked it in Blender to remedy both issues and now my wing nuts fit well and it doesn't hit the frame. Very easy and...
thingiverse
This clever solution shields the wires from wear and tear as they're connected to the heated platform, potentially even functioning flawlessly with the standard connector in place. ...To ensure precise placement, the pre-printed marks serve as a guide...
thingiverse
... Happy printing! Best regards, Pezzer Also, don't forget to check out: Anet E10 Thingiverse Group: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anete10 My Mods and Upgrades page: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anete10/forums/general/topic:19424
thingiverse
... while the smaller one is an evolution of redangel1984's V3 model. Both are specifically engineered to work seamlessly with the Anet A6/A8 printers, ensuring precise adjustments when calibrating the Z-end stop thanks to Bomber0's clever modification.
cults3d
... end stop switch support: one piece only. or better two pieces left and right see design pic. it's just an union of 3 designs. thanks for sharing. for other parts please visit my collection: https://www.thingiverse.com/aRGiRob/collections/my-anet-a8
thingiverse
The A6 hot-end tube was a non-standard length which I found hard to find, and the filament cooling fan served no purpose while adding weight to the already top-heavy cross slide. As I only run PETG at a max print speed of 60mm/sec, going fast is not...
thingiverse
... these three designs, we have created a more streamlined and efficient component. I appreciate you sharing your work! For other related parts, please visit my collection on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/aRGiRob/collections/my-anet-a8.
thingiverse
This is a major upgrade of my original X_carriage design, tailored to seamlessly integrate with several cutting-edge components: the AIO Evo hotend and the Touch-Mi level sensor. The design ensures flawless compatibility with these advanced tools,...
thingiverse
Remix of the refined linear chain tailored for Hotbed on Anet A8 at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2037096 to link up with the Y carriage plate from gulf coast robotics at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2848096 . ... Bolt spacing was off by a few...
thingiverse
The Ender 3 (common kit) has a standard mounting system that fits the original E3D head perfectly, while also accommodating the capacitive Z level sensor without any issues. This bracket prints quickly and efficiently with minimal filament usage. I...
thingiverse
These files match the original X-axis belt tensioner found in the Anet A8 Plus kit, but I encountered problems with the belt slipping out occasionally on my end so I decided to upgrade the smaller component of the belt holder allowing you to loop the...
thingiverse
Upgraded power supply unit cover for Anet A8 3D printer now manufactured by Upgraded Designs.
thingiverse
When installing an auto leveling sensor to the ANET, replace the z-min switch with the z-probe.\r\n\r\nIn case of any issue with the z-probe, nothing will stop the Z axis and it may crash into the bed directly with the nozzle. This could cause severe...
thingiverse
I attached a bow to the bracket of the chain at the Z end stop. ...This was done because I'm utilizing the limit switch as an extra layer of safety measure.
cults3d
print a pair of them, screw a M4 screw on each, (a standard M4 screw will self tap the PLA) clip them on the bottom of the Z axis turn each screw so that the top of the screw is around 0,5 to 1 mm lower than each z carriage Should a problem occur...