anet a8 improvements 3d models

Improved ANET A8 cooling nozzle for increased flow and cut away for fan blade clearance. Stock nozzle is not positioned correctly and doesn't allow enough air flow. This version is also correctly centered to the extruder nozzle. ...

I added legs to fit on top of my Anet A8 Prusa i3 Clone. I also used four 3mmx18mm pan head screws (extras from the Anet kit) and four 3mm locknuts. You need to print two left pieces and two right pieces to make the complete holder, along with...

This filament guide requires a bearing, but allows the spool to be strung anywhere around the printer and makes for some smooth filament action. It may at first be a little tight on rotating to follow where the print-head goes, but it'll get there...

There was an issue with the y-chain by Sukhoi27 with the new design of the anet. So I redone the drawings and added slot holes for the end user to adjust the hotbed mount according to his build. I also added some lenght to it so it will serve a...

There was an issue with the y-chain by Sukhoi27 with the new design of the anet. So I redone the drawings and added slot holes for the end user to adjust the hotbed mount according to his build. I also added some lenght to it so it will serve a...

A plate modified to use 2 M3 Nuts and 2 M3 * 18 screws that come with the Anet A8 kit.

Hello all, I recently built my Anet A8 and I have been looking for upgrades. ykimhi had a great design with this rear frame brace, and I decided to remix it to add some improvements. The only things I did was to add a landing in the back, and...

Hello all, I recently built my Anet A8 and I have been looking for upgrades. ykimhi had a great design with this rear frame brace, and I decided to remix it to add some improvements. The only things I did was to add a landing in the back, and screw...

Hello Anet A8 printer users! I made this upgrade for the Anet because the X-axis was the weakest axis because of the play and imperfections on the standard 8mm steel rods. This upgrade wil remove all play on the X-axis and provide you with a...

As I installed my Anet stock sensor onto my Anet A8, I noticed that the acrylic plate was bending pretty much since the screws are fastened between the two X-Axis rails where there is nothing for the plate to sit against. The problem with that is...

I improved the y-belt tensioner from freemark by adding two 3d printed screws, therefore no screwdriver is needed to adjust it and you dont scratch the face of acrylic frame. Printing with brim is highly recommended as it does not have very big...

This filament guide requires a bearing, but allows the spool to be strung anywhere around the printer and makes for some smooth filament action. ... It may at first be a little tight on rotating to follow where the print-head goes, but it'll get...

No supports needed and much stronger join.

It's a remix of Freemarks "Improved X-Belt tensioner" - hence the improved improved. The look of the steel bolts for adjustment seriously clashed with the look of the Y-Belt tensioner by @Photograaf16 (1959208), so decided I wanted something...

These are improved Y Belt Clamps for the underside of the Anet A8 to hold the Y Belt. The original ones made of acrylic tend to break under too much strain because they lack the support on the sides. ... You need to print 2 of those for the Anet A8.

For the base, it was designed to fit the original Anet A8 acrylic frame adding the extruder mount designed originally based on the designed by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2146021 The design requires these bolts for the extruder 2 M3x25 1 M3x20...

Print Settings Printer: Anet A8 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.3 Infill: 100% Filament: Monofilament ABC Notes: If you want you can always appreciate and support my work, I will be grateful, below link to Donate. ...Thank...

Hey, I remixed the x-belt tensioners from: Anet A8 Improved X-belt Tensioner with GT2 pulley by TecNerd x-belt tensioner by freemark My GT2 Belt came with a 16tooth asymmetric pulley so to use it I modified the tensioner. ... You need: 2x M3 Nuts 2x...

This x-belt tensioner works with the original right side bearing block that came with the printer. I modified this tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1683070 ,so it is nicer and easier to use. I added the front hole because I didn't...

I love the Y Belt Tensioner by freemark! It has two screws for Y Tensioning. This allows for slightly angling the pulley left or right to line it up just perfectly. I added some thumbwheels, washers, and lockwashers to lock it all down. I had a...

I didn't really like the design of any of the existing clips, all the ones I tried kept falling out or just felt flimsy. It took me a while to get the right dimensions, but this one should fit perfectly. If it goes in too tight, do not force it, do...

I like the orignal design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1683070 But I had problems to screw the screws as soon as the adjustment hardens, so I designed this knob to attach the M4 screws of the original design and thus be able to use it more...

Questo modello è un aggiornamento in quanto ho usato un perno da M4 e come cuscinetto un modello con i denti.

As with the Y-Belt tensioner from freemark I replaced the metal screws with 3D printed ones so you don't need screwdriver for adjusting your x belt. I also shortened the pillars by 1cm as I dont see the reason for them to be that long. TO AVOID Z...

This Y-belt tensioner is designed to keep the belt pulley in the same position as the original non-adjusting mounting bracket, in order to maintain the correct geometry along the Y axis. There are two adjusting screws to allow proper alignment of the...

This x-belt tensioner works with the original right side bearing block that came with the printer, so you do not need to print a new one. It also tightens against the x-axis rods instead of the right bearing block. This is to prevent binding along...

This is a stoper for the x axis.

I remixed the body to fit a GT2 idler

I modified this tensioner to work with aluminum toothed idler pulleys. ...The ones I used can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BTTER04/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the 3mm 20 toothed ones.

I've been needing a way to reinforce my rear frame, as well as mount a 40mm fan to cool my stepper during extra long prints. I know its not completely necessary, but after having a few prints stop mid-print, and reviewing some message boards, I...