anycubic upgrade 3d models
81740 3d models found related to anycubic upgrade.grabcad
At the stage of completion. Please check, try on. ...Perhaps not the final version.
pinshape
This modification is perfect for combining with the new rear cable connector box to relocate the cable connector to the back of the trolley, freeing up a completely clear front plate for installing an extrusion and cooling system tailored precisely...
thingiverse
To receive support, attach a straightforward plastic tube as long as you want (each printer, one measurement).\r\nI've created an uncomplicated electronics circuit for modulating light.\r\nThe knob (potentiometer) increases or decreases the LED...
thingiverse
Using an 8mm threaded rod and a 13mm locknut for the control mechanism has been my approach.
thingiverse
These upgrades work in conjunction with the original E3D V6 (clones also compatible) and utilize most of the printer's original components - effector and carriages, however, require modification due to the brass spacers. Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus...
thingiverse
The E3D v6 Hotend has a nominal length of 62.3mm (see the drawing here: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/n5grN2JNoNibYeQW/V6-175-ASSM.pdf) My original Anycubic Mega-S hotend has a measured length of 70.7mm. The nozzles have the same length in...
thingiverse
... included the bushing needed to slip on the Z-rod. Overall super happy with the upgrade as it eliminates the rod slap on some prints. ...I'm a newb to TinkerCAD which is what I used to edit so it may not be perfect but seemed to line up well for me.
thingiverse
You have to pull the mainboard out of the case to install the fan upgrade for the fan duct into your printer, and it's a snug fit but it works.
thingiverse
Original posting: This is a remix of combination of Vap3Lif3_MCMXCV fan duct that was designed using https://www.printables.com/model/378928-anycubic-kobra-neo-fan-duct by Martin. ...The circular fan duct was found on the internet (no idea where I got...
thingiverse
To make it easier to upgrade without special hardware. Attention, due to the change, other screw lengths are also required! ... M3 Threaded (Brass) Insert [TBI] M3x5x5 or Ruthex M3x5,7 Like in the original design...
thingiverse
#Anycubic Mega X X-Carriage (MK4 Remix) ##Assembly guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7SVuvIMS-A ##UPDATE: Added V6 Hotened Version ##Partlist: 17x M3x10 Cylindrical Head Screw ISO 4762 4x M3x16 Cylindrical Head Screw ISO 4762 (You get those...
thingiverse
Works with my Creality LD-002r. Shoud also work with the other 3d printers. Activated Carbon sponge avoid bad smell excellent. I replaced the original Fan with a Noctua 40x40x20 (NF-A4x20 FLX) More silent and no smell. ... As filter sponge i used: ...
thingiverse
I discovered a vintage speed control from Zalman that's perfect for controlling the brightness of LEDs. The advantage is that light levels can be easily adjusted. It does not blind or annoy, only illuminating what needs to be printed at the moment.
thingiverse
As i'm also a beginner in 3D-Printing i started to print some additional parts for my printer to learn and get some practice and i want to share my experiences. The most parts are "easy" to print but bring some mostly optical improvements. But...
thingiverse
Manufactured with reinforced walls and precision-cutouts for secure mounting. ...Crafted from high-quality PETG material.
thingiverse
If you want to use my profile, you will also need: - [Titan Extruder](https://e3d-online.com/titan-extruder) with 1.75mm Bowden, Standard, Mounting Bracket The Amiga Raspberry Pi Case pictured above was printed on the upgraded AnyCubic i3 Mega and...
pinshape
I created this design in Sketchup to replace the noisy 50mm fan that came with my printer purchase on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00006IFZW/. The image in 'My Photos' is a 2mm thick test print, ensuring everything lined up...
cults3d
I decided to remove the noisy bearings with something better and quieter. ...The grip is in place of the original holes, the tanks are fastened with 1 bolt on the base, at your request it can be drilled and fastened with 4 bolts The necessary bolts for...
thingiverse
This part can be screwed on top of the buildplate using the already existing threads. ...It is meant as a guide to drill evenly distributed holes for magnets as a replacement for the flexplate magnetic sheet
cults3d
This part can be screwed on top of the buildplate using the already existing threads. ...It is meant as a guide to drill evenly distributed holes for magnets as a replacement for the flexplate magnetic sheet
thingiverse
I opted to swap out the rowdy bearings for a sleeker and quieter alternative. The grip now occupies the spot where the original holes used to be, while the tanks are secured with a single bolt at the base, as per your request - it can also be drilled...
thingiverse
I opted to steer clear of all the unconventional conversions floating around, instead choosing to keep my printer's design refreshingly straightforward. To achieve this, I crafted a spacer that effortlessly takes care of the task at hand when...
thingiverse
Thanks to @ringo2k for the base model. ... I added side panels to prevent the Filament Spool falling off the Holder ;) You need 1 8mm rod or M8 rod and two normal 608Z ball bearings.
cults3d
I didn't want to do all the weird and wonderful conversions that people posted, I wanted to keep my printer more 'vanilla' looking. So I designed this spacer which when tightened does the job perfectly. Spacer is 9.5mm (there is 1CM of space but...
thingiverse
I'm remixing a flawless design from Atziano, perfect for pairing with optical end switches and a sturdy corner brace. To get started, I'm using these optical switches: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2210746, a fantastic resource. ...Meanwhile, the...
thingiverse
Hello, I created this handy device to adjust the extruder to the "open" position, allowing me to effortlessly wind the filament onto the spool without having to halt the clamp.
prusaprinters
<p>Hello,<br/> I designed this little tool to fix the extruder in the "open" position so i can just roll the filament up to the spool without having to stop the clamp.</p> <p>Hope you find it as useful as me :)</p> Category: 3D Printing
thingiverse
This is just the stl spacer required to install a heated bed on the Mega Zero. ... For a full guide see: https://github.com/ztipnis/Mega-Zero-Heated-Bed
thingiverse
A lot of the existing upgrades are working with the Noctua or Scythe fan. I was looking for a low budget solution to change the loud fan for the drivers in my Mega X. For about 9 € (16.10.2021) you can buy an "ARCTIC P12 SLIM PWM PST - 120 mm"...