creality cr scan ferret 3d models

I have made the shelf a lot deeper so you can store more light things on it! ... Kudos to bollekeil for the original design.

I remixed the original design from cooker2003 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2598238) and made some changes to make it more user-friendly. I moved the SD card slot forward a bit, so it sticks out now, making it super easy to access. To keep my...

The V2 Holder is designed specifically for a dial indicator with an 8mm size. To install it, you will need a M3x6 screw. The original design can be found on Thingiverse under the title "OEM Fang Mod" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2544186). ...For...

Did a quick remix of the auto off switch for the CR6 se. Used the stock CR6 power switch from the bottom power plug. It's somewhat thin, it may be necessary to remix it. It's adjustable, and is bolted to the hexagonal hole in the bracket instead of...

The creation is a reworked version of basalt1987's ingenious dial indicator holder, specifically tailored to fit seamlessly on the CR10 while accommodating its standard cooling system.

Hello, Do you have such problems with adjusting the print bed of your 3D printer? Maybe I have a solution for you, all you need is a little bit of time and the following materials are available on Amazon. About 3.7m PLA filament (11g) is one thing...

Moin Moin, Here's my brand new 3D Touch Holder V2! The biggest advantage over the first one is that this one doesn't need to be disassembled every time. ... You'll need four stand-offs under the hotend and longer screws for the rollers.

The revised cable guide is now live, courtesy of Alexis3D's expertise, with added space to accommodate the ABL cable and an RGB-LED strip cable for enhanced functionality.

To upgrade, simply take off the thumb screws underneath the printer bed, next install the printed knob first on top of its original small counterpart and secure with a screw. Support my work for more free, high-quality designs. Updated April 6th,...

This is a remix of the z-stop cover by Solitary47 with a see-through hole to see the led on the z-stop. I made this to stick a small piece of 1,75mm transparent filament through the hole to guide the light as I did not like the look of a 5mm led...

Here is the text rewritten: - Improved airflow enhances performance for both fans - Increased interior space accommodates All Metal Hotends with ease - Expanded space allows for secure termistor cable routing - Longer attachment points ensure...

To keep cables running from the top of the Z-axis down to the bottom tidy and out of the way. ...The top clip is help with friction, whereas the bottom clip requires replacing the two factory M3 screws with longer ones (I used M3x10mm with washers).

Wanted my sensor to be as compact and inconspicuous as possible, so I designed this.\r\n\r\nThis doesn't work with the EZABLE kit because their sensor is significantly larger and more expensive. ...This is intended for something like an...

The top cover is worn out, but i think im only one having this filament sensor with two screw holes

Here is a remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2643432 adapted for OctoPrint: - Supports a 2-relay board - Power outlet included - No SD card holder added - Hole for pliers included - Hole for knife included - OctoPrint logo integrated - Case...

I couldn't find a gear for the ender 3 v2 neo for the filament to smoothly feed into the extruder. ...I had to design this one as a remix of the original.

After scouring the web for a straightforward Direct Drive mount that pairs seamlessly with both the E3D v6 hotend and BMG extruder, I opted to modify the "E3D v6 Heavy Mount" provided by TH3D Studios instead. I've included wing mounts specifically...

This is the plastic component that secures the stop switch to the y-axis.

The CR10 V3 comes with the spool without enough height to allow the filament to enter the sensor at a smooth angle and it gets worse as the filament is used up. With the factory build the filament is almost horizontal to the sensor entry point. ...

Printed with ABS at .15mm layer thickness, but for exotic prints, Poly Carbonate may yield better results. To achieve maximum strength, replicate the part as shown in the S3D screenshot. This design utilizes two M4 screws and T nuts to secure it...

Correction on bottom slave, there are a few missing vertex

Just slide it onto the aluminum bracket and underneath the filament sensor. This will anchor the guide really well, and no glue will be needed. I added some extra length to both halves of the guide, which should give you the option to add bearings...

Thanks to the ingenious creator of the prototype, we've enhanced the design by incorporating a secure snap fit that ensures the cover attaches seamlessly and securely to the base.

Did not find any guides that did not hit the tower of the printer in outer positions, this one clears the tower with a few millimeters, and has a nice angel that supports the original position of the cable.Printet upright with normal support

This housing corrects the poor tolerances that falsely trigger the runout sensor and halt the print.

The slide prevents the cable from catching at the rear end of the frame.(Spray a few silicone at the top of the slide to improve the sliding of the cable sheath on the slide).The slide is attached to the frame using M3 screws and “T-nut M3 rotating...

23 chain pieces required.Top holes on the cover is for 4mm screws, originally 3mm but I use 4mm on my printer.

Remounted spotone's device to secure the sensor firmly without having to fiddle with loose nuts.

It demands careful shaping, which requires precise temperature control. This component exhibits remarkable stiffness and can be manufactured using a PLA filament rather than the typical carbon fiber material. ...A photograph depicts a fully assembled...