creality3d ender 5 plus 3d printer

You need the 90 degree duct, duct converter, plate adapters, and stilts to raise the 3d printer. The 90 degree duct attaches directly to the power supply. Make sure that the rear fans blow into the case, and the front 2 blow out of the power supply...

Bracket to support eSun eBox to the top of a Creality Ender 3 Printer Print 2 of these and slide them on.

I designed a compact spacer that allows users to install damping feet on their Ender 3 in conjunction with the Ikea desk system, providing ample space to secure the feet without damaging the bottom of the upper desk. ... To utilize this solution, you'll...

This saves having load of bolt on on the outside of your printer case and allows for easy cable management that is my next task (don't judge me :p). I might make a re-design of this at some point to include the USB buck converter I have...

For all MK lovers, this is the beloved Ender 3 3D printer on a keycap. Works with Otemu switches, should work with cherry MX. I added Test switch socket so you can test it first. Modification made to source files thanks to:...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:586673 My goal was to fit the design on my Ender 3, but I couldn't find a simple solution that would be easy to adapt to various spool sizes and thicknesses available in the market. The design features an 8mm bolt,...

This is a mix of the direct drive mount from paydayxray (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4310609) and the hot end side link from Gnizten (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4116655) This version has a 9mm Y offset to be compatible with HeroMe Gen 5

I designed a device to prevent self-unwinding of 3D printing filament spools, which often results in frustrating tangles and knots that can ruin prints.

THAT PROBABLY WON?T WORK ON T8 SCREWS!!!** This mod is inspirated in the Hevort work, but reducing thesize to fit in other printer that I own. Tha will help reducing wobble when your T8 screw are worng. I will publish diferent version with...

... left knob version should work just as well. ...Please let me know if anything needs to be adjustedUPDATE: v1.1 rounds a few of the external corners where faces meet, and reduces the thickness of the front by 0.5mm to make it more flush with the printer

... Use hex pattern or triangles infill. Wall line count (perimeter) 5 Concentric bottom and top pattern looks better ;-) I also designed a kind of support for the Stepper, if it gets to hot, to prevent bending in case of too high belt tension.

Spool Holder Parts Required: qty 1 - 3/8" x 5" Bolt qty 1 - 3/8" Nut qty 6 - #6-32 x 1/2" Socket Head Cap Screws qty 2 - 3/8 ID x 7/8 OD x 9/32 width Pre-Lubricated Bearing (I use these because I always have some on hand)...

However, that means I now need 6" of clearance on the right side of the printer. ...Thinking of a better design - wondering if going up would be better.</li> </ul> <h1>Modifications</h1> <ul> <li>Added BL Touch mount</li> <li>Added reinforcements and...

You will require an M3 screw and a nut to secure the basic screw-on X-axis motor strain relief, which should be printed horizontally.

First one you can use your stock bltouch bracket. Use ABS or PETG. 30+% infill. Use this duct with it. ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5340802

This is a remix, taken from two of Hangtight's designs, the one linked and this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3241793 and modified to fit this bracket for top mounted linear rails: ...

I remixed the Microswiss X_Carriage with 3 screwing positions for an inproved grip. On the right the M3 hole must be drilled to 4,2mm. ...The hole on the bottom must also be drilled (I was not able to edit it right...) It's my first time I was able...

Plugs directly into an unused SD card slot found on a standard 12864 case design, similar to one described by TH3D in their 12864 conversion setup.

All brackets mount without the need to drill any holes in anything. Brackets: Back row left to right. X axis carriage bracket: Mounts on the bolts that hold the upper carriage wheels in place. Longer bolts are required: M5 x 40mm. Nylon washers...

This is a remix to have the individual files. Please note the bracket must be mirrored to print the opposite side. ...You will need to support the bracket overhangs.

Designed to support the heat bed cables to help take some of the strain from the solder joints of the cables when bed is at the high positions. Undo the 4 pcs m4 screws holding the linear guide bearing, slide it between the guide bearing and...

<p>Tired of finding the hole you can't see when the bed is in the way? You want this. ...It's not pretty, but it's dead on and works.</p>

Simple thing. Prevents the bownden tube from flopping around the filament rinaout sensor after you've moved to direct drive. This is a clip-only design, it pops in place and holds itself from moving up and down using an indent that fits in the...

for SKR2

My version of the bed raise. I use 100mm M4 screws, as well as additional springs about 20mm (0.75in) in outer diameter. If you use springs which have been flattened you probably won't need the spring keepers. I remixed the motor side riser to...

for SKR2

wanted to use heat set and also make use of the extra SSR mount holes for more stability. it also moves the board away from the side so you dont have to cut a hole but you also cant access the ports. ... this was ok for me as im running klipper

Look how close that X-axis Stepper Motor wire comes to the rollers. ... Move that wire away from the rollers with this!

I modified these 2 items and remixed it to fit the back rail without needing any additional tools.