ctc i3 pro 3d models
141865 3d models found related to ctc i3 pro.thingiverse
This version modifies the original Design by jdobry, which was intended for use with a 180W PSU. This modification is tailored to work seamlessly with the bigger 250W PSU. With this custom PSU Cover, it's now impossible to accidentally touch live...
thingiverse
I needed a mount for filament sensor next to the extruder. Print it with support only on the base. The holes doesn't need supports. ... I will post more informations soon
thingiverse
This is a simple support for the Extruder Motor, so you can check bed levelling Fits standard comparator (check picture for reference) Fits geetech extruder motor Non printed material: 1 x 4mm threaded rod 2 x 4mm nuts 6mm hexagonal head...
thingiverse
I've recently created a brand-new filament guide that's outperformed my previous one significantly. It appears my old guide was gradually losing its grip over time, leading me to design an upgraded version with a secure clip-on attachment for my...
thingiverse
To enhance user convenience, shorten the left side of the panel for effortless insertion and removal of SD cards. ...Meanwhile, expand the right side of the panel into a versatile area where users can attach switches or other accessories as needed.
thingiverse
This design makes it easy to position the filament around the LCD screen. You can place the printer on its side, but be sure to keep the ends from curling up as you print it. ... Update: I've designed a new and improved filament holder that works much...
thingiverse
I'm trying to create a custom fan for my Geeetech 3D printer. Unfortunately, I've been having trouble finding fans that fit the mounting holes properly on this site. It looks like they're all slightly too big or too small. ...In order to get it right, I...
thingiverse
I finally figured out how to easily access my power switch by creating a small 1-centimeter gap between it and the nearby surface. ...This ingenious solution allows me to effortlessly flip the switch with minimal effort required.
thingiverse
I decided to enlarge the bed print size slightly, so I purchased a 220x220 glass sheet and neatly trimmed its corners. To avoid using dial nuts and Allen keys, which I found frustrating, I added countersunk M3 bolts. Next, I created these corners,...
thingiverse
I was inspired by this original design. My leftover cut-offs were still usable, but my strips needed remaking since they were coated. To make it work with the adjustable fan duct from redangel1984, I had to modify the profile to fit between the Fan...
cults3d
Modify for m3 screw with integrated nut location and a side jogger for the limit switch.
cults3d
This thing can fix the wobbling at your Z-Axis. Warning! ...You can use it only at 8 mm plate bulk.
cults3d
I made this because I was sick of having to use my phone's flashlight to see how the print was going, since even with the room's light turned on the print area was too shady. Surely the fact that I print only in black PLA doesn't help! :P I had this...
thingiverse
I drew inspiration from a straightforward blueprint and crafted this enhanced version, which provides a sleeker appearance and securely fastens onto the nozzle stepper motor without relying on adhesives. This upgraded model boasts pre-drilled holes...
thingiverse
Thanks to @ringo2k for the base model. ... I added side panels to prevent the Filament Spool falling off the Holder ;) You need 1 8mm rod or M8 rod and two normal 608Z ball bearings.
thingiverse
I didn't like the wooden frame from my printer because it was unstable - screws kept coming loose all the time and leveling was a major issue with this printing platform. So I decided to upgrade to an aluminum frame. A few things I found for the A8,...
thingiverse
UPDATE: rod length reduced by 30mm, totaling 90mm (picture depicts outdated 120mm design) This straightforward filament holder can be easily mirrored in CURA and utilized for doubling up capacity! Even flipped to face forward. Comes with an...
cults3d
I created a small tray to fetch the oozing filament at the extruder home position. ...It fits tight to the three screws near the Z-axis motors.
thingiverse
You have to print Upper Arm(Left),Upper Arm(Right), 2 Lower Arms and 2 Arms join. Then you have to join Upper Arm(Left) with one Lower Arm and Upper Arm(Right) with one Lower Arm using the two Arms join, like in the first picture. ...
thingiverse
a simple spool hanger for this 3d pritner... ...simple, easy, fast and efective it can hold bigger spool than the one that comes with the printer it's designed to avoid blocks and to be stable to not influence the prints
thingiverse
Print two (one for each side) and then use a length of 20mm PVC pipe in the middle.
thingiverse
This component is designed specifically to prevent the Geeetech printer's Z-axis bearing from tilting excessively.
thingiverse
Replaces the glass plate on the heat bed without using the included clips.
thingiverse
This is an extruder wiper. I created one because cleaning the extruder with tweezers before each print was a huge hassle, leaving strings everywhere. So, I borrowed an idea from the Cel Robox and designed a wiper to clean itself automatically before...
thingiverse
Replace the LM8UU bearings on the Y axis with Igus when you switch them out. It provides stability for Z-axis guidance. ------------------------------------------ You can recycle the LM8UU from the Y axis once you swap them out for Igus. ... This...
thingiverse
A simple solution that provides a solid foundation for printing. The mounting bracket features strategically placed 3.5mm holes, perfect for securing screws and ensuring a stable base. ...I employed four of these brackets to attach the printer to a...
thingiverse
He eliminado el soporte para el led y simplificado la pieza
thingiverse
I couldn't locate a comparable mounting system from Geeetech, so I created my own solution. ... Mounting holes were drilled in the intended locations for Mosfet installation, requiring modification via a 3mm thread cutter.