dual z axis sync 3d models

... ANYCUBIC I3 Mega,Mega-S. also Mega-X and Pro maybe? how to use: 1) put bearing to Left2. 2) put Left2 to left side Z AXIS shaft. 3) place Left1 near Left2. 4) join Left1 and Left2 tightly with screw. ... 5) and then right side,in same way.

A z-axis knob with the Honeycomb theme that perfectly matches @shryx86's "Extruder Knob" remix. Enjoy and post your makes! ... Update: V2 has been posted- fixed an issue with a random shape within the knob If you found my Things useful, treat me to...

The turret will spin around as your Z-Axis raises up. I used a good amount of support for this and printed the turret inside the warthog already. Be very careful cleaning up the supports. I didnt spend a whole lot of time on my print just tested the...

I've Rejigged the Z axis mounts for the type F MPCNC (25mm version). The setup now utilizes two F8-16M thrust bearings and a 5 - 8mm rigid coupling. Forces are effectively transmitted through the coupling and bearings, rather than relying on the...

I created this component due to a lack of support for securing z-axis threaded rods atop version 4 of the frame's structure. The bearings in use are 625ZZ units, requiring a 16mm diameter hole despite their actual size being 15mm to facilitate easy...

Designed up this Z axis rod guide to mount on the alu profile using 2 bearings 608 8x22x7 but with one is enough. It's meant to make the rod straight. When mounting be sure you mount it at the same distance from the side as it is in the bottom....

I also liked the concept of incorporating a z-chain for an even sleeker appearance, yet upon closer inspection, the existing design proved difficult to print and didn't quite live up to its clean aesthetic promise. Therefore, I opted to create a...

It is a safety device when the Z-axis sensor detects something other than the hot plate. Thanks to that, I had to see the nozzle attacking the hot plate many times. You need the following .Outer wall such as a washer with a diameter of 15 mm or...

The human replaces the Sunhokey Prusa i3 upper Z axis holder by installing it into place. This holder supports the addition of bearings to a threaded rod, specifically 8x16x5 bearings, which securely fasten onto the rod using clips that hold firmly...

This is a reinforced part for the Tevo Tarantula 3D printer Z axis. Print it in PLA material, three layers and twenty percent infill. No supports required. You might need to rotate it before printing. ... ------------------DISCOUNTS------------------ ...

A stabilizer for the top of the Z axis lead screw. Uses a JZZJ 608 ZZ (22x7x8) to hold the lead screw and two M5*16 screws with hammer head nuts to secure to the top extrusion. Moving the carriage to the top will hold the lead screw in place to...

This is a camera / webcam mount that fits on my printer's Z-axis. It fits on the two screws that hold the outside wheels. These are separated by 66mm on my printer. ...If yours is different, you may need to adjust the spacing in the scad file before...

It Utilizes A Lengthy M3 Screw, Alongside A Spring And Washer, To Adjust The Z Axis Home Position. This Configuration Is Not Particularly Elegant, So I Designed A Printed Part That Simplifies The Adjustment Process. To Effectively Implement This...

My design has some nice features, like the X axis cover uses 2 of the original screws to hold it in place, and the mount for the Z axis adjustment bolt uses the other two screws. Hopefully it should make installing the parts easier. The...

... flexible. Should be pretty easy to extrude all the walls (inwards) by 1mm if you want it to be a little more sturdy.I haven't tested it with the famous Z-Axis handle, but it does fit with this one that I use.Modelled with Shapr3D on an iPad Pro.

It consists of a 3mm rod (steel, brass or anything really) glued into a bracket and running through a guide on the top of the Z axis tubing. Parts needed: 1 M4x40 screw and a hex nut. 2 M3x15 with nuts 1 3mm rod with a smooth surface. I have...

To reposition the Z axis switch, I simply drilled one hole and made some adjustments on the fly; my first attempt was a bit too high. The entire tower is held in place by four screws that can be accessed from the inside of the printer. Simply...

The pictures are of the new version and it is installed and keeping my z-axis stepper motor much cooler. One picture is of the front of the first version of the fan bracket (after the mounting tab broke) just to give an idea of what the front...

I created a mod to clear out Cetus' Z stabilizer, specifically designed for the Cetus MK1 model. The mod can be found on their website at cetus3d.com/blog/242. ... While working on this project, I encountered an issue sourcing a 25mm bolt, so I decided...

It uses a cable loop to ensure the Z axis is driven from both ends, and at the same time provides a large degree of "z wobble" isolation, though a severely bent leadscrew will still show up in the print as artefacts in layer height due to small...

This is a mash up of the upper bracket from 3DChanh's Z-Axis Braces and 3cliipse's ultimate Z Brace for the Artillery Sidewinder X1. It utilizes the same bottom brackets from 3cliipse's design, but I beveled some of the edges to get a look that...

This results in the bed moving down the Z-axis initially during startup, which creates an unpleasant noise if the bed is already lowered. Initially, I used a plastic foam spacer glued to the bottom of the bed frame to address this issue, but it...

This is an upgraded version of this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3519669/files modified to make it easier to print , assemble and disassemble. The z axis rods are mounted a little looser for easier assembly, but can be clamped in place with two...

When Ender starts, it moves down Z-axis first for some millimeters, but if bed is down, motor makes some roumorous noise, i don´t like. In first, i glued some plastic-foam-spacer on the bottom of the bed-construction but it was not really fine. So i...

In the case of my Anycubic Mega S, I had to file down the brass spacers on my right Z axis limit stop/switch, to allow space for the coupling to turn. Again, these look nice once they are installed and are spinning true, but given the time...

**Warning: Since axis Z brakes 4mm before the factory system, the highest point will pass to be 4mm less, ie Zmax = 396mm, if you try to print a piece of 400mm high, the last 4mm will be a failure.** To do this, it is only necessary to place the...

You can also use dual z leveling with this addon. I printed some calibration cube's with 7k acceleration to compare printer with and without the mod. ... Parts: 3D Print: 4x - Profile_Mount_Bracket 1x - Stepper_motor_mount 1x - Main_Z_Plate 1x -...

Lot of the Dual z brackets bolt up to the adjustment wheel and this one uses the little bolt next to it. Depends on the wheels you have like dual bearings or single, you may have to adjust how long the spacers are. You will need the following...

The Ender 3 and A10/M have different wheel spacing, so a lot of dual z brackets bolt up to the adjustment wheel, but this one uses the little bolt next to it. Depending on your wheels, whether you have dual bearings or singles, you might need to...

Press the new Z-axis mounts into the front of the X-axis rails, making sure they're centered over the stepper motor driveshaft as possible (otherwise you'll create unnecessary forces that will lead to wear and wobble). Put one T-nut on top and one...