printrbot z wobble 3d models

The original design is a really good oldham https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3355459/files I remixed that, because I made some changes in my old Tevo Tarantula, one of these changes was the XZ aluminium frame from 20x40mm profile to 20x20mm...

I'm still learning the ropes of 3D creation, having just taken my first stab at it. As a complete newbie to 3D modeling, this was an exercise in trial and error for me. I'm hoping that somehow, someway, someone out there might find it useful. The...

<p>Remix from <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792315">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792315</a></p> <p>its edited to fit for this setup <a...

I switched to a 9.6mm screw because I use a threaded rod.

I simply reworked the original designs without altering their integrity, leveraging Fusion 360's capabilities to eliminate artifacts that were causing issues in my slicer. I also increased the width of the brass nut by 1mm to minimize slop and ensure...

Basic bar and screw brace. To ensure a smooth fit, I drilled out the screw hole slightly, expanding it to 8.3mm with a drill. A bit of looseness is essential to prevent binding issues. ...The original print settings remain unchanged; feel free to adjust...

This tool provides a straightforward way to secure the guide rail and prevent looseness.

This is an effortless fix for the TronXY X5S and other similar 3D printers using standard 608 8mm skate bearings. I successfully installed mine by utilizing leftover screws that fit snugly into the two holes on each motor, which still have threads...

A slight rehashing of the original tune.

I can't provide that information for privacy reasons.

608ZZ rulman için tasarlandı. M4 vida, 6 kanal somun ile üstten profile bağlanabilir. ... Trapez miline bir tur elektrik bandı sarılarak 608ZZ rulmana takılırsa daha sabit bir mil sağlanır.

A bearing with a diameter of 22 millimeters is required, its inner diameter must measure at least 8 millimeters.

You need only 8mm bearings for this projects. What else? I solved your vitality problem fuccking asshole, give me a tip, c'mon! ...(with love but not a lot, I'm not pervert)

I was having severe issues with vibration/warping on my prints. I ended up creating this new nut instead of using the original one. It now moves smoothly along both X and Y axes while nestled at the bottom of the printbed, gently nudging it upward.

Surely not the first of similar ideas, but i couldn't find one that had 3 point support to allow fine adjusting the alignment and was small enough. This is the same size as the standard aluminium coupling (20x20x25mm), apart from the screws sticking...

with 608zz bearing

I'm remixing a design from Thingiverse, specifically thing 2792315, which I've modified to work with another model, thing 2334406. ...The intermediate and central components of this revised version remain unchanged, thanks to their original creator,...

This revised design features holes that are precisely angled at 45 degrees for enhanced functionality and aesthetic appeal, inspired by the original creation of Draxan. ...To replicate this innovative concept, kindly refer to the detailed instructions...

I needed jaw coupler that can be printed form ABS and wouldn't break after tightening the screws. You can either print mold pieces and use hotglue to make elaster or print it from soft TPU. P.S I recommend you to print the mold from PLA so you...

A good working design with three steel balls instead of the popular but poor design with four balls. ... Parts: 3.92 - 4mm steel balls from bearing (627zz or 628) - 6x 6x3 neodymium magnets - 9x D: 2mm, L: 7.4 - 9mm steel pins - 24x

<p>After printing the sharpie color blender, I needed to push up my filament spool by a few centimeters. &nbsp; This is a simple sleeve and post, to gain some extra height. ...&nbsp;The pieces slot in fairly tightly, even to each-other, so if you need...

A customized version of the Thingiverse model (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40078) was created with the Customizer, featuring a dial set at three, a 20mm length, and a knurled addition. Check it out!

Make sure to print copies for backup purposes!

... while the smaller one is an evolution of redangel1984's V3 model. Both are specifically engineered to work seamlessly with the Anet A6/A8 printers, ensuring precise adjustments when calibrating the Z-end stop thanks to Bomber0's clever modification.

# Reverse Z-axis motor mounts __Update 170831: This mod is still a work in progress, as I've encountered some unwanted Z-backlash that I'm currently trying to track down. I suspect it's due to the aluminum-spring-couplers.__ This modification...

User of the NoName CoreXY printer know that the four linear bars need to be aligned properly to not bind the linear bearings during Z movements.I always had issues with this causing bad Z artifacts and nothing helped so far.As the original NoName...

It's a quick fix to tackle the anti-shock issue on the Z-axis without breaking the bank by purchasing new bearings. I've put it to the test and it performs flawlessly. ...Now, I need to come up with a solid system for securing it so it doesn't shift...

This is a really quick edit of the original design to wrap around and tighten on the X5SA's Z-Carriage. What you need are threaded inserts like in the original, as well as very long m3 screws (40mm). Might not be the most practical application. ...I...

... for the Printrbot Plus Metal, only to find out it wouldn't work with my specific model. ...I had to wait until I got around to designing some custom mounts for the lead screws on my old Printrbot Plus 1311 with the Z-X Upgrade before getting it right.