prusa open idler 3d models

The MMU idler door for the MMU2s is challenging to open, as the lever used to activate the sensor interacts with the extruder body. This mod uses a 8mm M3 screw and bolt to disengage the lever from the idler door. To open the door, just unscrew the...

In this iteration of the idler door the gap between the housing and the idler door is increased, hence the possibility of some self-cleaning mechanism increased (increased, not solved). No negative effects were experienced so far. Debris falling...

In this iteration of the idler door the gap between the housing and the idler door is increased, hence the possibility of some self-cleaning mechanism increased (increased, not solved). No negative effects were experienced so far. Debris falling...

In my experience, depending on the quality of the filament, every 2000-4000 filament changes it is necessary to remove debris and filament dust in order to have the Prusa working properly. In this iteration of the idler door the gap between the...

This is based on the Prusa MK3 updated R3 (August 3, 2018) Extruder and has: - 40x40x20mm Fan mounted without losing print volume - Cooler Heatsink of Hotend due to improved airflow and more pressure - Cooler extruder motor as some air flows into the...

Otro idler para el eje y para impresoras tipo prusa i3 rework. Se rompió el que tenía, y me daba fiaca tener que sacar todo la varilla rosaca para colocar uno vuevo, de paso la correa no pisaba bien sobre el todamiento asi que hice un idler para usar...

Y-Idler for Prusa 3D Printer

Prusa i3 Y idler. ...Improves the tension on y axis Material M6 nut x 1 M6x15 screw x1 Pulley GT2 with tread 5mm diameter M2.5 nut x 1 M2.5x20 screw x1

Updated Idler design for MMU2S

less wobbly y-idler for the einstein variant (M10 threaded rods) of the Prusa-i3 so far all y-ilder have the problem that a) they are mounted on only one rod and hence rotate/wobble and b) since they mount on the upper rod, the points at which the...

Updated Prusa MMU2S

Prusa i3 mod Y idlerM8, M3

After many years of printing I noticed my Y axis idler pulley starting to click and upon further investigation I noticed that the inner race had come out of round (or issues with the sealed bearings). I decided to do a proper upgrade by changing...

I suddenly discovered that many people are having my problem so I updated the Prusa part to get it stronger. This design is based on R1 prusa part. Print instructionsI have printed it with PETG 0.20 3 perimeters and 30% fill with Honeycomb 3D...

This is an improved Y-Idler for an Original Prusa MK2. The Idler body is wider to provide more lateral stiffness. The head and nut recesses eliminate the use of washers and minimize the number of tools required to assemble/disassemble the front...

hey folks, here's my conversion for the y axis idler of a prusa I3 its for an 624 bearing

Small Y Idler

This is the modified version of the original from China Prusa (ebay) clone Tensioner Idler for both bed and Y Axis now it uses 2 regular ball bearings the bolt and nut I use is from the car battery connector witch is a standard size. This idler will...

This is a Z Axis threaded rod idler for the Prusa I3 Rework, its designed to fit with the original Z axis mounts. You need to print 2x shims, they interface the 5mm thread to the 8mm hole in the 608 bearings. ...BOM: 2x608 bearings Print Settings...

This is a reverse engineered Prusa MMU2 idler with a few changes. As I've cracked 2 of the original ones and had some issues with idler bearings being a little too loose, I've drawn this in Fusion basing on original. Fit and size are the same. ...

... 2 x M5 Nut (one without thread) , 1 x 20 mm cross Screw (M4 + Nut) and 1 x 40 mm M5 Screw Update: The Bearing is an MF105ZZ 5 x 10 x 4 mm! ... 2 needed!!!! Print Settings Printer: Prusa I3 Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Doesn't Matter Infill: 25-40

this is the X idler end for the prusa I3 3d printer of geeetech I3 Pro , pro B and pro C which you can see here http://www.geeetech.com/unassembledgeeetech-i3-pro-c-dual-extruder-3d-printer-p-927.html

This is the prusa i3 x end idler, just a note i put this on here so i could just send the link to the person who is printed it for me. ... Also i seen that there was a motor x end on here so there needed to be the other end at least

The original Prusa Iteration 2 X-Idler does not allow the belt to line up with the pulley on the x-motor. I've included pictures showing the issue. This thing moves the wall that holds the 608 bearing toward the rods about 5mm. ...I changed the...

Modifications compared to stock MK3 idler door: - Slide in holes for the shaft instead of through hole - Cutout to have more clearance for the bondtech gear part (*) - Wider opening to use DIN125A nylon washers (*) - Cuts for nyloc nuts (*) *) These...

Modifications compared to stock MK3 idler door: - Slide in holes for the shaft instead of through hole - Cutout to have more clearance for the bondtech gear part () - Wider opening to use DIN125A nylon washers () - Cuts for nyloc nuts (*) *) These...

The axis of the original idler (the black one) is around 1 mm higher than the axis of the extruder. This offset can be a source of feeding problems for very flexible materials. ...I copied the design and moved the ball bearing 1 mm lower, it is now...

You'll need: 1 4mm bolt and nut 1 5mm bolt and nut 2 5mm washers 1 605Z bearing Sandwich the bearing in between the washers and then insert into idler. Screw the 5mm bolt through and tighten it with a nut on the opposite side, use threadlocker to...

You'll need: 1 4mm bolt and nut 1 5mm bolt and nut 2 5mm washers 1 605Z bearing Sandwich the bearing in between the washers and then insert into idler. Screw the 5mm bolt through and tighten it with a nut on the opposite side, use threadlocker to...

I have been fairly dis satisfied with many of the Y-Idler tensioners so I decided to do what any good hobbyist would do and make my own, Ii is best printed on its side with scaffolding for the bearing retainer, I used two 625 bearings, and M3 screws,...