prusa y axis vibration 3d models

The Y-axis on the Prusa Mk3S is held down with zip ties. I really didn't like looking at those (although they do seem to work fine) so I measured the Prusa part and created a new clip to replace them. Since I was replacing them I also used Ruthex 3mm...

The original Y Axis bearings that came with it worked perfectly fine at first, but as time passed by, they started to exhibit some noticeable shortcomings - they required the use of zip-ties to secure them in place, which I wanted to avoid for future...

When using stainless steel y-axis rods and a standard Prusa Y-axis carriage with Igus RJZM bearings, I encountered some twisting and binding issues that resulted in failed homing and failed prints. I decided to try a 4-bearing carriage to address...

I decided to make this after discovering that my Infitary i3 would overshoot the build plate on the x and y Axis. ...Sanding might be required to have Y adjustment outer shell fit.

High tolerance rods and linear bearings caused excessive slack in my Prusa i3, leading to noise at any speed and build up of resonance in the y-axis belt even at moderate 40mm/s printing or moving speeds. The belt eventually slipped off from its...

Simple Remix of the Original Prusa Mini Y Axis Front Plate to read "Midi". My Prusa Mini build started as something to do with some leftover parts I had lying around from an i3 clone, while waiting for my actual Prusa Mini Order to ship in the...

The bearings can no longer be moved by hand, yet the Y axis slides very smoothly. My choice of thin M3 square nuts may not have been the best decision, as those can be hard to find. Feel free to modify the design for other nuts, as long as you share...

I envision a Y-Axis cable management system that leverages the robust frame of the Alunar printer, allowing for a more efficient and clutter-free workspace. ...Unlike other solutions that rely on squeezing cables alongside the print bed, this design...

I Made This After My Prusa I3 Hbi3 Kept Overshooting the Build Plate on Both X and Y Axes, Requiring Me to Sand Down the Y Adjustment Outer Shell for a Perfect Fit.\nPrint Settings\nPrinter:\n Prusa I3 Infitary (HBI3)\n \n Rafts: No\n \n Supports:...

This is a remix of the y-axis idler mount from the Prusa i3 Bear Upgrade that fits on the stock Prusa i3 MK3 frame.InstallationRemove the LCD assembly from the front plateRemove the front plate and existing idler mount from the printerScrew the new y...

The Y base endstop on my BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos printer doesn't align perfectly with its relevant frame, so I created this custom endstop based directly on the BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos design. ... Print Settings: Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: BQ Prusa i3...

So there are many x-axis tensioners out there but I never found a y-axis tensioner that fit the HIC TECH Prusa i3 so I made one. This part aims to help keep the y-axis belt nice and tight, to help maintain the highest quality prints all the time.

Should increase stiffness of y axis belt and, teoretically, allows to inchrease accelerations without receiving more ringing. Can't test it properly because after I installed it, I realised, that input shaper at my klippered prusa mini was...

This design allows for quieter operation, but also significantly improves stability and rigidity of the y axis. For a double linear rail design, it is important to not over constrain the carriage in order to allow for smooth operation. The...

I redesigned the Y axis to make it better:\r\n\r\n- aligned belt with plane of Y carriage bearings \r\n- perfectly flat belt so no torque is induced on bearings\r\n- widened belt clamp and more rigid connection to bed\r\n- **moved end stops to idler...

These custom MK3 style y-axis ends have been designed specifically for my upgraded Prusa i3 MK2.5, boasting super stiff construction that resists bending under the tension of the y belt. For optimal results, it's highly recommended to print these...

This modified Y-axis block is designed as a drop-in replacement for the "Original Corner Blocks." All files are version 5.0. Print time per block is approximately four hours. Front blocks take around three and a half hours to print. Rear blocks...

The existing Y-axis stepper motor mount is prone to instability, as it provides a mere 7mm of contact surface area with the printer's frame. ...This limited interface causes the motor to move excessively during operation.

To safeguard against motor twist, a rear Y-axis stepper motor mount is installed, preventing damage caused by belt grinding along the edge of the belt drive. ...This upgrade ensures a seamless transition with the original acrylic mount design.

The y-axis motor mount that comes with Geeetech's acrylic kit is 2mm too long, allowing the motor to tilt slightly when the y-axis belt is tightened and causing it to run off to one side. This modified mount replicates the original design but...

Because my Y motor holder on my Anycubic Prusa i3 broke while I was assembling it, I had to replace it. ...Unfortunately, I couldn't find a suitable replacement part that fit perfectly with the acrylic frame of my printer.

This is a remix of gameoffuture's Y-axis Belt Holder. The original file is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1021281 What I did was added some extra teeth to make the belt rap around and hold better. ...I did the same thing with my X-axis belt,...

I made a remix of gameoffuture's Y-axis Belt Holder by adding more teeth to the design so that the belt wraps tightly around and stays put. The original file is available at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1021281. ...I applied the same modification to...

This feature addresses the challenge of opto-endstops on the Y-axis by providing a reliable solution. ...Designed to integrate seamlessly with the Y-carriage, which can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1111853 Remixed from this original...

--- TESTING IN PROGRESS --- Works for me so far, some Ideas still to-do (more support points, some kind of leveling, ...) I want a stiffer and more robust Y-Axis Carriage on my Original Prusa MK3. The Commercial Upgrade I've found had a few...

I wanted to upgrade my Y frame to 10mm, including both threaded rods and smooth rods, and also incorporate a positive capture of the smooth rods. Additionally, I aimed to be able to bolt the entire printer to a separate solid base, so the corner...

... your 3D printer in the future, I highly recommend using a more powerful spring. To secure the springs, I employed a long M3 screw (52mm) and its corresponding nut, ensuring a robust and reliable setup that effectively dampens belt vibrations.

I'm hoping these adjustments will keep the belt clamp part of the bracket level with the top edge of the T20 pulley on my NEMA17 stepper, ensuring even tension across the full range of Y axis travel. Right now, there's increased tension at each end...

This feature proves particularly useful for individuals who have crafted their own Y Axis from wood or opted for a third-party replacement, as it guarantees all bearings will be positioned at an identical height. These mounts bear some resemblance...

It can also work for the Y axis. The part features a 10mm inner diameter, which fits the 623zz bearing perfectly. I have included the Solidworks file as well. You are free to use it and have fun making it. **Important Instructions** Printing...